From the far eastern tip of the Isle of Purbeck head down to Old Harry’s Rocks where the official boundary of the Jurassic Coast begins. Stick to the coastal roads as they narrow and split to keep the sea in view for the majority of the ride. Divert down little dead end lanes to discover hidden car parks, perfect to rest, chill, wonder and explore. Delve deeper into the surrounding landscape by embarking on one of the many walks or rides that circle the neighbouring environment, through ruins, ancient earthworks, caves and smugglers trails. The 90 mile drive continues all the way to Lyme Regis, covering the entirety of the Jurassic Coastline in Dorset.
Distance: 90 miles/145km (not including diversions to beaches)
Landscape: Country lanes and roads. Roads can get very narrow. Unsuitable for large vehicles.
Closures/Restrictions: Lulworth Ranges and the Lulworth Estate are only open at restricted times.
Map: OS Explorer OL15 Purbeck and South Dorset
Refreshments are available in many locations along the route.
Toilets: see individual car parks for information.
Related Walks: Dorset Inspiration, Dorset Peaks, Dorset Stones, Dorset on Film and The Jurassic Coast.
Marked H&W: Part of the Free Hall & Woodhouse Series
THE ULTIMATE JURASSIC DRIVE
ISLE OF PURBECK
Studland
PARKING – National Trust Shell Beach (Postcode: BH19 3BA, Grid Reference: SZ034863). Toilets
Wander along one of Dorset’s most stunning beaches, looking out to sea to the Isle of Wight. Follow the sand to the little fishing village of Studland. Discover Henry’s Fort, remains of World War 2 defence with further views out to sea, to then head into the seaside settlement. Cross the road to enter the so called barren landscape of Studland Heath. Make your way through the yellow, spiky gorse and delicate heather to find the Agglestone Rock and the secret beach of Bramble Bush Bay.
Old Harry’s Rocks
(The official start of the Jurassic Coastline)
PARKING – National Trust South Beach, Studland (Postcode: BH19 3AU, Grid Reference: SZ037824). Toilets.
From the small coastal village of Studland make your way along the cliff tops to Old Harry’s Rocks. Now a stump, a stack and a bit of no man’s land, the peak once housed a castle. Both the caves below and the name are linked to a famous local pirate, whose reputation struck fear into any passing ship. Continue along the cliff edge, past the Pinnacles to Ballard Down accompanied with stunning views across Poole Harbour, Sandbanks, Studland, Swanage and the open blue sea to the Isle of Wight. Visit the obelisk, erected to celebrate fresh flowing water for the locals, to return via a First World War camp, which has turned into luxury housing, and the ancient Saxon towerless Church.
Swanage
PARKING – North Beach (Postcode: BH19 1PL, Grid Reference: SZ029799). Toilets.
PARKING – Broad Road (Postcode: BH19 2FA, Grid Reference: SZ035785). Toilets.
Starting at the blue coastal waters of Swanage Bay, pass colourful beach huts and wooden groynes to climb through the residential estates to Ballard Down. Pass a 17th century farm, built from stone stolen from Corfe Castle, and weave through the trees to the base of the steep slopes. In the company of views over Swanage Bay to the Needles, follow the path under the shadow of an obelisk. Meet a country lane that slices through the hills and continue along the Purbeck Way while ancient monuments top the peaks. Drop down in to the valley passing the cows of Knitson Farm to Windmill Hill, scarred with little quarried holes. Return to the coastal town of Swanage, past the rustic Godlingston Manor, through growing allotments and skimming a celebrity’s seaside bolthole.
Durlston
PARKING – Durlston Country Park (Postcode: BH19 2HW, Grid Reference: SZ032773). Toilets.
From the folly of Durlston, walk along the cliff top to admire the treats installed by a local Victorian businessman, passionate about stone and landscape. Discover the castle and 40 tonne stone globe, engraved romantic quotes and recycled bollards, all installed for visitors’ entertainment over a century ago. Wander past the 18th century Tilly Whim caves, used for stone, smuggling and leisure until a rock fall left it to nature. Admire the sea views of the Jurassic coastline, following in the footsteps of many different generations of masons, tourists and travellers. Return high on the slopes, through heath and fields, looking down upon the old navigational beacons and lighthouses.
Langton Matravers
PARKING – National Trust Spyway Car Park (Postcode: BH19 3HG, Grid Reference: SY997783).
Escape the crowds of the Jurassic Coast and explore the deep, hidden valleys lost in time. From Langton Matravers follow the footsteps of the smugglers straight to the hiding place of their loot; the paths also trodden by Hollywood stars and renowned authors. Climb down the short but sweet slopes to the Wilderness of the babbling brook, the land once home to a Benedictine priory which has been lost to the trees and merged into a farm. Cross over the Swanage Steam Railway and climb up to the medieval, crumbling settlement of Ailwood, sitting in the shadows of Neolithic and Bronze Age barrows. Return via the bewitching Dunshay Manor, home to a varied selection of Dorset’s elite including Benjamin Jesty, the innovative but shamed farmer, and Mary Spencer Watson, a sculptor who stole a wife for herself!
Worth Matravers
PARKING – Woodhenge Car Park (Postcode: BH19 3LE, Grid Reference: SY974776).
From the Mason’s pub of the Square and Compass, in the limestone village of Worth Matravers, discover the caves of Winspit. Looking out to sea, the ghost like movie set was once a bustle of activity providing stone for the most prestigious of buildings all over the world. Follow the paths of local smugglers and passing pirates to Dancing Ledge; the stone floor containing a pool, blasted out of the rock by a keen headmaster. One of his pupils was inspired to create the famous British spy James Bond, the surrounding landscape etched into the character’s family history. Climb the cliffs to walk in the sunken footprints of dinosaurs at Keates Quarry and return via the Priest’s Way, the ancient, religious path accompanied with views for miles across Dorset’s Jurassic coastline.
St Aldhelm’s Head
PARKING – Renscombe Car Park (free) (Postcode: BH19 3LL, Grid Reference: SY964774).
A short but challenging walk to the end of the Portland Limestone peninsula of St Aldhelm’s Head. Pass the little, square chapel, dedicated to the same Saint, with a mystical history. Follow the top of the cliff to dip down and climb back up to the war memorial. Discover the hidden Chapman’s Pool, accessible only by footpaths, its coastal waters having proved a problem for many passing ships.
Kingston
PARKING – Houns Tout Car Park (free) (Postcode: BH20 5JS, Grid Reference: SY953794).
Wander through the landscape of Corfe, under the shadow of the famous Castle. Explore the village to find the hiding places of a murdered King and elusive treasure. Cut across medieval farming land before venturing onto the common, littered with ancient Bronze Age Barrows. Climb the hill to the little village of Kingston with a Lord caught dead to rights and the cathedral he built to apologise! Discover Blashenwell Farm complete with its pond and water wheel, all with views back to the crumbling castle. Walk along a prehistoric road that once linked a number of lost settlements, including one of the biggest Mesolithic sites in the country as well as a Roman villa, but has since been trumped by modern day routes. Return by following the river past earthworks of fishponds and fighters, tracing the base of the castle.
Chapman’s Pool
Discover one of Dorset’s most beautiful, yet remote, coves on the Jurassic Coastline. From the little village of Kingston, high on the Purbeck ridge, wander through the woods of Encombe estate. Clip the steep slopes as they roll down to the manor, Golden Bowl and Purbeck Stone obelisk to reach Houns Tout, accompanied with views west to Kimmeridge and the Isle of Portland. Join the newly developed coastal path, combating a recent landslip, to views east over Chapman’s Pool and St Aldhelm’s Head. Drop down into the valley to detour to the beach, clambering over muddy slips and along eroding paths. Return to Hill Bottom to climb back up to Kingston passing ancient settlements, a haunted pub and Kingston’s own cathedral.
Swyre Head
PARKING – Swyre Head Car park (free) (Postcode: BH20 5JS, Grid Reference: SY943792).
Starting at a little secret, deep in the Isle of Purbeck, rise up to discover panoramic views of the Jurassic Coastline, all hidden from the rest of the world. Walk along the ridge passing ancient settlement and country houses, one of which was home to a highwayman who terrified travellers but escaped the gallows. Skim the old fishing and smuggling village of Kimmeridge and return to see the silhouette of Corfe Castle appear and the blue water of Poole Harbour sitting behind. Slowly climb the slopes, back to Kingston, with the tower of Purbeck’s Cathedral guiding the way.
Corfe Castle
PARKING – National Trust Corfe Castle Car Park (Postcode: BH20 5DR, Grid Reference: SY959824). Toilets.
Starting at the base of Dorset’s most famous castle, wander through the ancient woodland and local nature reserves, once the setting of clay mines dating back to the Romans. Skim past the peak of Creech Barrow, before climbing Knowle Hill with far reaching views across the Isle of Purbeck. Follow the ridge to return to the castle, towering over the ruins with a birds eye view. Return by circling the tumbled towers and exploring the haunting grey limestone village.
Church Knowle
Climb up the hidden peaks of the Purbecks. Explore the ancient ridgeway route, scattered with Bronze Age barrows, Iron Age earthworks, and medieval tofts and crofts. Enjoy views over Poole Harbour to Poole and Bournemouth in the north and the wooded valley of the Corfe River to Weymouth and the Isle of Portland in to south. Dip down to an important crossing, its old road now trumped by a hairpin bend. Delve down into the valley to discover the oldest house in Dorset along with its shrunken neighbouring settlements whose only remains are farms, barns and bumps in the ground; one being home to a murderess. Return through the village passing the traditional Purbeck stone cottages topped with ever decreasing tiles or whitewashed walls, kept cosy with thatch.
Kimmeridge
PARKING – Kimmeridge Bay Smedmore Estate Car Park (Postcode: BH20 5PH, Grid Reference: SY909790). Toilets.
PARKING – Kimmeridge Quarry (free) (Postcode: BH20 5PH, Grid Reference: SY918800).
Explore the little bowl of Kimmeridge. Climb up its easterly peak to the Clavell Tower, once a folly then a coastguard station now a holiday home. Skim the wide open bay, darkened by its precious black rock, to Gaulter Gap. Follow the little river upstream to reach the hidden hamlet, so out of the way it was one of the last settlements in the county to receive electricity and water. Stay on the village road between a museum, a restaurant and a collection of thatched, stone cottages to return to the babbling stream. Retrace your footsteps to the coast with views out to sea, the waves crashing on the shallow rock, the water often scattered with surfers.
Blackmanston
From the coastal cliffs of Kimmeridge, wander inland down into the valley of the River Corfe. Pass the mysterious Harp Stone, once marking an ancient route now sunk into the ground, and carved by centuries of rain, wind and sea spray. Clamber the remaining earthworks of Whiteway and zig zag up the Purbeck Hills to views over Corfe Castle and Poole Harbour. Follow the hilltop to Creech Grange Arch, the sky framed through its window from the manor house below. Pass through Steeple, home to the ancestors of America’s first president, George Washington, their coat of arms the inspiration behind the famous Stars and Stripes of the American Flag. Skim Blackmanston, where the murderess Martha Brown met her victim, before returning via the Devil’s Staircase to rewarding views over the Jurassic Coastline.
Steeple
Clamber the coastal cliffs of Kimmeridge with panoramic views over the Jurassic Coastline. Wander the along the ridge to drop down into the inland valley using the old holloways that saved many a smuggler from a roving officers eye. Enter into the little hamlet of Steeple, the smallest on the Isle of Purbeck, to find the hidden church with connections to the United States of America. Return skimming a farm once worked by one of Dorset most notorious residents and up the Devils Staircase to the peak.
The RANGES and The Weld Estate.
(dependent on open times)
PARKING – Isle of Purbeck Viewpoint (free) (Postcode: BH20 5DE, Grid Reference: SY904817).
PARKING – Tyneham (Postcode: BH20 5QF, Grid Reference: SY882802).
PARKING – Whiteways Viewpoint (free) (Postcode: BH20 5QF, Grid Reference: SY887811).
Ranges – Tyneham
Discover the ruined village of Tyneham, frozen in time since being taken over by the army during WW2. Loved and lost by the residents, who once had hopes to return, today it is little more than crumbling ruins. Climb the hill to the Iron Age hillfort of Flower’s Barrow, with views stretching across the Jurassic Coastline as well as inland. Descend the cliff to meet the beach at Worbarrow Bay, with the option to return via the valley or have an extra explore to the top of the unforgiving Gad Cliff.
Ranges – Lulworth to Bindon (H&W)
From Lulworth Cove, discover Little Bindon, a small monastery founded nearly 1000 years ago. Today it is a fenced off ruin, hidden amongst overgrown trees and in the company of deer. Continue to Pepler’s Point to appreciate the cove from up high. Find the ancient fossil forest and a hidden smugglers cave before climbing the mighty Bindon Hill. All while enjoying the views of the Jurassic Coastline, from St Aldhelm’s Head to the Isle of Portland. Follow Bindon’s ridge, skirting historic earthworks to the end, and down into West Lulworth, returning to The Lulworth Cove Inn.
Lulworth Estate
From a hidden location, buried in woodland and scattered with ancient barrows, take advantage of Lulworth Estate’s permissive paths through private grounds, filled with a number of romantic buildings all in different states of repair. Discover the wide open lake with a secret boathouse and fort dressed in battlements. Explore the impressive castle, its parkland and the hidden chapel to the ruins of Clare Tower and the North Lodges, cocooned and protected by surrounding woodland. Wander past the remains of the deserted village of Coombe Keynes to return through the heath and freshly planted saplings of Haremere Wood, all in the company of the odd glimmering view out to sea.
Ridge
PARKING – Stoborough Heath Car Park (Postcode: BH20 5BG, Grid Reference: SY937863).
Claimed to be one of the oldest settlements in Dorset, the River Frome has shaped Stoborough’s growth as an ancient causeway provided access over the water. After surviving many Viking attacks, the Civil War led to its downfall when the village sacrificed itself to save the town of Wareham. It never returned to its earlier status, quietly minding its own business as Wareham grew. The old routes still carve their way through the landscape, later cut by the tramways of the clay industry. Wander through the wild heathland and Nature Reserves, following the ancient paths past burial mounds and quarries while weaving through the gnarly trees. Return using the dismantled tramway straight back to Ridge, sitting on the banks of the river as it makes its way into Poole Harbour.
Stoborough
PARKING – Bog Lane Green Space Cap Park (Postcode: BH20 5AN, Grid Reference: SY918855).
Explore the landscape caught between quarries and the army. Starting at a fresh green space, bordered by an ancient barrow, cross the railway that rose like a phoenix from the ashes. Clamber into heathlands skimming the military training area, through the wild landscape of Purbeck Nature Reserve. Wander past derelict farms and million pound houses that sit on its edge, with views to Poole Harbour and beyond.
Lulworth to Osmington (H&W)
PARKING – Lulworth Cove Car Park (Postcode: BH20 5RJ, Grid Reference: SY821800). Toilets.
From the Lulworth Cove Inn cycle the chalk hills and absorb the sights along the Jurassic coastline to the Smugglers Inn. Climb out the valley to Daggers Gate, with its own little legend, to begin the rural route along paths of the original Customs Officials while they patrolled the cliff tops for smugglers. Pass Durdle Door, Bats Head and the slopes of Scratchy Bottom as the wide views stretch from St Aldhelm’s Head in the East to the Isle of Portland in the West. Skim the small settlement of Ringstead to descend and rise again to Coombe Bottom with views of the White Horse. Cut through the small village of Osmington before following the narrow river valley to the coast and the Smugglers Inn.
Durdle Door
PARKING – Durdle Door Car Park (Postcode: BH20 5RS, Grid Reference: SY811805). Toilets.
Dip down to the stone outcrops and curving coves of Durdle Door and Man o War. Hear the roar of the shingle pulled back by waves which claimed the lives of the maidens of Lulworth Castle. Climb up the cliff of Swyre Head to meet the chalk arch embedded into Bat’s Head. Continue to wander along the clifftop to a number of hidden bays with the Jurassic Coastline disappearing off the west and the Isle of Portland out to sea. Circle past the 19th century navigational beacons either side of the ancient Ridgeway to views east over Lulworth Cove. Return by skimming the ridge of Scratchy Bottom, where Gabriel Oak’s sheep were driven off the cliff by his very own sheepdog in Thomas Hardy’s ‘Far From The Madding Crowd’.
SOUTHERN DORSET
Winfrith Newburgh (H&W)
PARKING – Red Lion (Postcode: BH20 5RJ, Grid Reference: SY805853).
Hidden behind the hills of Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door are the villages of Winfrith Newburgh and Chaldon Herring. Wander between the thatched roofs and cob walls to the manor houses, churches and ruins. Explore the landscape that was once a playground for 19th century artists, poets, authors and sculptors to climb the hill to the Five Marys. Discover the Bronze Age Barrows that share views almost across the entire southern corner of the county to return to the village through old drove roads, smugglers tracks and forested paths.
Warmwell
A deserted village with nothing but earthworks to another that still has the homes in shell like form, almost creating a ghost village. Climb Moign Down to the trig point where a number of UFO sightings have been reported, some by reputable sources! Travel back through Owermoigne, home to the oldest inhabited building in Dorset while others were constructed from the Spanish Armada’s downfall. Return to Warmwell via the wild woods and permissive paths.
Ringstead
PARKING – National Trust Ringstead Bay Cliff top (free) (Postcode: DT2 8NG, Grid Reference: SY757825).
PARKING – Ringstead Beach (Postcode: DT2 8NF, Grid Reference: SY751815).
Explore the forgotten landscape of Ringstead. From the peaks of South Down, scattered with prehistoric activity, discover panoramic views of the Jurassic coastline. Visit the lonely but romantic chapel, sitting on the slopes, the building tinged pink, decorated with Whistler windows and dedicated to two locals. The churchyard remembers those lost at sea, while the water below still hides many more watery graves. Venture down to the golden beach via a cliff that can occasionally catch fire, its tinder the trees that grew millions of years ago. Walk along the shoreline to the abandoned village, now marked with little else but earthworks. Delve deep into the ancient woodland, full of crumbling ruins of a life long lost, to the old church, now a private home. Clamber back up the hill, though heath and gorse, with your previous footsteps visible in the landscape behind.
Osmington Mills (H&W)
PARKING – Smugglers Inn Car Park (Postcode: DT3 6HG, Grid Reference: SY735817). Toilets.
From the smuggling coastline of Osmington Mills, explore inland to discover pirate secrets in the nearby village of Osmington. Follow the River Jordan to Sutton Poyntz, in the shadow of Chalbury Hill fort. Visit the ducks of the village before climbing up to the chalk White Horse, there to honour a mad king. From the ridge, enjoy the impressive views across the stunning Jurassic coastline to then descend back to the village, with scenes admired, and painted, by the artist John Constable. Finally trace the footsteps of smugglers to return to the Pub.
Bowleaze Cove
PARKING – Bowleaze Cove Car Park (Postcode: DT3 6PL, Grid Reference: SY702819)
PARKING – Overcombe Car Park (Postcode: DT3 6PJ, Grid Reference: SY696816). Toilets.
From the shingle beach of Bowleaze Cove, where the River Jordan meets the sea, explore the once bustling Roman landscape. Take the old Preston road, hidden behind holiday parks, past the site of a Roman Villa. Wander through the village, with the ghost of a Portuguese sailor haunting the inn, to the old Mill House down forgotten paths. Discover the lost ‘Roman’ Bridge, fading into the surrounding hedgerows then climb up Jordan Hill to find the Roman Temple. Return to the cove over Furzy Cliff where the views look out over Weymouth Bay and the ground has unearthed rare treasure.
Weymouth – Lodmoor
PARKING – Beach Car Park (Postcode: DT4 7SX, Grid Reference: SY687809).
PARKING – Swannery Car Park (Postcode: DT4 7SX, Grid Reference: SY676796). Toilets.
From artistic sculptures, hidden in plain sight, wander through Lodmoor Nature Reserve to Weymouth Bay, the beach voted one of the best in the country by The Sunday Times. Follow the defensive wall, saving the reserve from the aggressive Atlantic storms, to skim the site of a lost Toll house. Enter back into the reserve to head up to Littlemoor, which began life as a World War 2 Australian camp, the streets still echoing with Australian cities. Return through the hidden paths of the reserve, cocooned by woodland and passing a country house with early links to Thomas Hardy.
Fortuneswell
PARKING – New Ground Viewpoint (free) (Postcode: DT5 1LL, Grid Reference: SY689730). Toilets
Skim the surface of the moon-like landscape of the Isle of Portland. Find ruins of Victorian military defences, complete with tunnels which disappear into the darkness, before arriving at the cliff tops providing views for miles along the Jurassic coastline. Discover the towering structure of the Nicodemus Knob and the deep carved bowl of the Portland stadium. Venture into the old quarries, down narrow gullies, between steep channels and through old tramway tunnels. Emerge at the sculpture park of Tout Quarry to join the coastal path and descend the limestone ridge looking over the famous Chesil Beach. Explore the resilient towns of Chiswell and Fortuneswell, having survived the force of the sea many times, to climb up to the great citadel using the old Merchant’s railway, still scarred with the tram’s grooves.
Isle of Portland
PARKING – Portland Bill (Postcode: DT5 2JT, Grid Reference: SY677685). Toilets.
Split from the rest of the county, on an outcrop exposed to the mighty wind waves from South America, the Isle of Portland can be a harsh and dramatic environment. The landscape contains so many secrets with many more to probably still to discover. Explore the island, from the prisons to the cliffs and the lighthouse to the quarries, with the views never ending.
WEST DORSET
Fleet
Starting in the doubly Thankful Village of Langton Herring, home to the monolith that drinks from the sea, walk to the Fleet Lagoon. Follow the water parallel to Chesil Beach, accompanied by a full range of wildlife. Pass Moonfleet Manor with its smuggling tales, real or not, and on to the fossil filled beach of Butterstreet Cove. Discover the remains of Old Fleet church washed away by a tsunami. Return via the hills, woods and farms back to the village of Langton Herring.
Rodden
Buried in the folds of the fields and slopes is the small hamlet of Rodden, surrounding its old Manor House. Climb up the steep sided valley to the peak of Merry Hill, with views over an old railway line and out to sea. Pass converted barns, which have featured in films, to then join the Coastal Path to the Fleet Lagoon. Follow the water’s edge through the nature reserve, bordered by the ancient barrier of Chesil Beach protecting it from the wild winds sent from South America. Return via the Doubly Thankful village of Langton Herring and over Rodden Ridge, passing a ruined lime kiln and tracing a little river upstream.
Merry Hill Barn – used in the filming of ‘Far From the Madding Crowd’ in 2015
Abbotsbury Railway
PARKING – Abbotsbury Car Park (Postcode: DT3 4JL, Grid Reference: SY578852). Toilets on Back Street.
Explore the historically rich, golden hued village of Abbotsbury by wandering though crumbling ruins, which tower up to the sky, as well as those hidden, knocking at the ankles. Find ancient sculptures of long gone Abbots and holes from musket balls fired during the Civil War. Discover the medieval pond with the great tithe barn and popular pigeon house watching over the water. Delve down through narrow lanes, past a mighty Plane tree, with a rope swing hanging from its branches, to the elegant Swannery; a staple roast for the spiritual monks. Follow the South West Coast Path as it leaves the sea but keeps the views east over Chesil Beach to the Isle of Portland. Climb down into the valley, looking over to ancient stone circles on the slopes above, to arrive at Portesham to meet the old Railway line. Pass the sleeper shed (with original fireplace), ruins (taken over by nature) and the engine shed before arriving at the station. The building has been replaced but stands on the same spot of the waiting passengers, the platform still visible under the roots of the trees.
Abbotsbury
Starting at Abbotsbury car park, follow the route through Abbotsbury village and up the steep climb to the ridge to be rewarded with stunning views of the Dorset Jurassic coastline. Pass the ancient Iron Age hillfort of Abbotsbury Castle to then drop down to Chesil Beach. Negotiate either the pebbles or use a parallel road to walk up the hill to St Catherine’s Chapel, dedicated to the patron saint of spinsters! Admire the views over the remains of the golden monastic settlement to return to the valley, rich with local history and legend.
St Catherine’s Chapel
PARKING – Abbotsbury Beach Car Park (Postcode: DT3 4LA, Grid Reference: SY560846).
Starting from Chesil Beach, with stunning views from Portland to South Devon, climb up to the historic St Catherine’s Chapel, inspired by the legend of St Catherine of Alexandria. Along the way, follow the famous geological marvel of Chesil Beach as it continues to its subtropical gardens and Swannery, mixed with dragon’s teeth left over from the Second World War.
West Bexington
PARKING – Beach Car park (Postcode: DT2 9DG, Grid Reference: SY531864). Toilets.
Follow the footsteps of fishermen, as they harvest the sea from the shore, and scramble through the pebbles on the high dunes of Chesil Beach, as the waves heavily crash into the peaceful surroundings. Pass World War two defences, a nationally renowned bolthole and coastguard cottages, which have become private homes, all with exceptional views over the notorious Lyme Bay. Climb up through the National Trust estate, alongside pill boxes placed to protect our country from invasion. Wander through the ancient landscape of Tulk’s Hill, placed at the beginning of the South Dorset Ridgeway which rivals Stonehenge for its spiritual earthworks. Drop down Donkey Lane to arrive at the hamlet of West Bexington, its original settlement, including an ancient church, burnt down by French pirates. Return to the beach between the bungalows which have happily grown from the sadness of both failed farming and unsuccessful enterprise.
Puncknowle
Beginning at The Crown Inn in Puncknowle, haunted by local legend, pass the impressive, yet modest, Puncknowle Manor House, linked to historical figures who put their brains to work. Enter the little hamlet of Swyre, well known for its smuggling past to continue to Chesil Beach, famous for its breathtaking views and myths, including tales of a mysterious sea creature known as the Veasta. Wander through the landscape full of wildlife, rumour and treasure from smuggling endeavours to then climb up to the remains of a coastal lookout. Return through the old tracks and trails of the coastal residents to Puncknowle.
Cogden Beach
PARKING – Cogden Beach National Trust Car Park (Postcode: DT6 4RN, Grid Reference: SY502885).
After clambering over the pebble beach of Chesil, turn away from the sea to wander along the old roads that were used by many coastal foragers of the Victorian age. Venture further inland to discover the old manor of Berwick before weaving through a number of peaceful fishponds sitting on the banks of the River Bride. Walk up to the remote but lost settlement of Sturthill, now only an isolated cottage surrounded by wild woods, crumbling walls and the site of a medieval chapel. The old village portrayed the charm of Dorset so well that it was used in a BBC production of Tess of the D’Urbervilles. Circle the site of the chapel to return to the coast, with views across the bay to the seaside town of Lyme Regis and into the county of Devon, all under the shadows of Hammiton Hill and Shipton Hillfort.
Burton Bradstock
PARKING – Hive Beach National Trust Car Park (Postcode: DT6 4RF, Grid Reference: SY491888). Toilets.
From a golden shingle corner of Chesil Beach, climb up to the peak of Bind Barrow, complete with panoramic views of Lyme Bay. The empty beach and wide blue sea played a crucial role in the D-Day landings, with American troops scaling the cliffs for training and the sea turning black with boats on the day of departure. Wander inland to meet the mills that once worked the little River Bride. Climb up to St Catherine’s Cross, a crossroads of little lanes on the possible site of an old chapel, the routes later used by many a smuggler. Walk along the ridge with the sea below and hillforts above, returning via the cliff top, a boutique hotel and a musicians bolt hole.
West Bay
PARKING – East Beach Car Park (Postcode: DT6 4EW, Grid Reference: SY463903). Toilets next to Discovery Centre.
Starting at the historical harbour, that has constantly fought Mother Nature, and the beach, lined with famous, crumbling sandstone rocks, clamber up East Cliff to appreciate the views along the Jurassic Coastline. Pass Bridport Golf Club dipping down into hole number 6, one of the top 100 holes in the world. Crunch through the shingle of Burton Freshwater to the River Bride, its flow struggling to reach the sea through the stones. Return to West Bay through the golf course to visit the old Station, then follow the long gone railway to the River Brit, guiding you back to the harbour. Wander to the end of the Jurassic Pier (West Pier) where modern engineering meets the waves and history is remembered by an 18th century cannon, found under the water.
Eype
PARKING – Eype Beach Car Park (Honesty Box) (Postcode: DT6 6AL, Grid Reference: SY447910).
Discover a secret of the Jurassic Coast, hidden down narrow roads, for only the brave to venture. The small village of Eype (Lower and Higher) sits on the river Eype as it meets the sea on the shingle beach at Eype Mouth. Walk back through the village and through ancient woodland to the historical landscape of Eype Down. Skim down Farm before gently climbing to Doghouse Hill, where the oldest settlement in Dorset has been found. Follow the coastal path to Thorncombe Beacon, with its astonishing views from the Isle of Portland to Devon, to then descend the steep slopes back to the beach before arriving at the car park, passing the old hut used as a murder scene in the TV series ‘Broadchurch’.
Chideock
PARKING – Seatown Car Park (Postcode: DT6 6JU, Grid Reference: SY420917). Toilets.
From the shingle and fossil lined beach at Seatown make your way inland to discover the medieval Chideock Castle earthworks, marked with a cross to celebrate the martyrs. Follow a route that echoes the coast of Great Britain on to Dorset’s most famous Holloway of Hell Lane. Hidden almost underground it would have been filled with scuttling smugglers, laden with contraband. Pass the Manor that replaced the castle, once the home of the Duke and Duchess of York. Climb the steep hill to Golden Cap, the highest point on the south coast. All with views that rarely disappoint, stretching out to sea, from the Isle of Portland to Torquay in Devon, down to the valley to the lost village and ruined chapel of St Gabriel, and inland to ancient hillforts.
Morcombelake (St Wite)
Explore the small valley of St Gabriel, following the footsteps of royal ancestors and enchanting saints. From the busy A35, cutting through the village of Morcombelake, dip down the slopes from the rivers source. Skim the holy well of St Wite, the little spring constantly flowing and believed to have magical healing properties. Discover the lost village of Stanton St Gabriel, exposed to the elements thrown from the sea, just inland from the unstable Jurassic Coastline. Pass the lonely thatched farmhouse to find its ruined church, once used by smugglers for storage. Climb back up the valley under the shadows of wild Stonebarrow, earthwork ridden Hardown Hill and the highest point on the South Coast, Golden Cap, to return to the original home of Moores Biscuits and their famous Dorset Knob.
Stonebarrow
PARKING – Stonebarrow National Trust Car Park (free) (Postcode: DT6 6RD, Grid Reference: SY389935).
Explore a secret section of the Jurassic Coastline hidden down old tracks that connected the long gone seaside settlements. Pass 17th century farms and old stone barns all under the shadow of Golden Cap. Discover ruins of an old village church, its origins linking back to a lone survivor who was washed ashore, his new wife taken by the waves. Leave the crumbling walls and earthwork remains of the village to climb Stonebarrow Hill, home of the elusive saviour of St Wite. Finish back at the peak with views to the little town of Lyme Regis and the famous Cobb.
Charmouth
PARKING – Foreshore Car Park (Postcode: DT6 6LR, Grid Reference: SY364930). Toilets.
From one of BBC Countryfile’s, top 5 beaches in the country, find the River Char as it manoeuvres its way through the shingle to the sea. Follow it upstream, deeper inland to The Street. With possible Roman origins the route developed into one of the most important roads from east to west, used by Catherine of Aragon, on route to marry King Henry VIII’s older brother, and King Charles II, escaping from the Civil War. Wander further upstream to the fields and meadows of Hogchester, where David Attenborough set part of Britain’s ‘Wild Isles.’ Skim the hill that hides a tunnel to cross the road that replaced it and join the new route of the South West Coastal Path, avoiding the frequent landslides. Weave through woodland to the cliff top with views over the Cobb of Lyme Regis into Devon. Return on the old Lyme Regis road, trumped by the main road and lost to the sea, so notoriously steep King George III had to dismount and walk with the commoners.
Lyme Regis (H&W)
PARKING – Charmouth Road Car Park (Postcode: DT7 3DT, Grid Reference: SY343925).
PARKING – Holmbush Car Park (Postcode: DT7 3JW, Grid Reference: SY336920). Toilets.
PARKING – Monmouth Beach Car Park (Postcode: DT7 3JY, Grid Reference: DT7 3JY). Toilets.
From the historical town of Lyme Regis, pass one of the oldest bridges in the county to visit Mary Anning as she gazes over the cliffs full of fossils. Head to the Cobb, and the wild undercliff, to then turn away from the sea and head inland. Discover the mysterious, yet beautiful, Ware House before arriving at the impressive Cannington Viaduct, its trains no longer running. Pass an ancient Iron Age settlement, which the Romans developed into their own bath filled farmstead, to the Devon village of Uplyme. Return to Lyme Regis following the River Lim along its wooded valley, passing many thatched cottages, tumbled ruins, an old waterwheel and a piece of Banksy artwork.
