Wander through a landscape steeped in mystery and legend. From ancient stones to witches, scramble boulders and skim ruins along the old Coffin Way. Pass a sanctuary that inspired artists to cut through the woodland to the coast. Follow the coastal path along the ragged and rough shoreline as seals bask on the beaches below. Circle the stoney outcrop of Zennor Head to pass Pendour Cove, the home of a mermaid and her family, to then return to the little hamlet of Zennor and the refreshing Tinners Arms.
Distance: 5.5miles/8.5km (see bottom of page for route).
Time: 2-3 hours
Ability: Hard. Tough climbs and plenty of boulders to climb along the coastal path.
Max height: 425ft
Min height: 10ft
Total climb: 525ft
Terrain: Tracks, paths and fields.
Start Point: Zennor Car Park (donation of £2). (Postcode: TR26 3BY, Grid Reference: SW454384, What Three Words: chiefs.cable.zones).
Map: OS Explorer 102 Lands End
How to get there: From St Ives, travel west on the B3306 for approximately 4 miles. Turn right into the village of Zennor to find the car park on the left hand side of the pub.
Dogs: On leads where livestock is present and in accordance with any notices on the walk and The Countryside Code.
Refreshments: At the start and finish of the walk is The Tinners Arms and on route is the Moomaid of Zennor Ice cream.
Toilets: Next to the car park in Zennor
Related Walks: Chesil Beach (mermaid), Bincombe & Pentridge (magical barrows), Little Bredy (burial chambers), Valley of Stones (an ancient, boulder strewn, landscape)
Walk
Zennor, the last alphabetic parish of the country, is a small hidden hamlet on the north, rocky coast of the southern tip of Cornwall. The parish includes a number of smaller settlements such as Boswednack, Porthmeor and Treen, all of which are only a little bigger than farmsteads. It sits between the larger towns of St Just and St Ives, connected by the B3306 road, which is believed to be one of the most picturesque roads in the country, squeezed between the sea and moor.
The wild but romantic landscape has been inhabited for centuries. Ancient stones consisting of megalithic burial chambers and dolmen fill the surrounding fields and top the circling peaks, including the Zennor Quoit and Sperris Quoit. Settlement grew in the Iron Age creating fortified hilltops and enclosures, many of which still survive today at places like Chysauster to the south.
The name Zennor derives from the Saint Senera (in the Cornish language as Eglossenar). Known also as Asenora, Sinara, or Sennara, she hails from northern France. Her husband, the King of Breton, accused her of adultery while she was heavily pregnant and, without hearing her defence, placed her in a barrel and threw her into the coastal waters off Brittany. While floating she was visited by Saint Bridget (the patron saint of healing and of Ireland), in the form of an angel who helped her give birth into the waves. She and her baby were washed up onto the coast at Zennor where they was rehabilitated before traveling to Ireland. Her son became Saint Budoc, his remains becoming a pilgrimage back in Brittany. Many different versions of the story exist, with possibilities of different people being attributed to the different names. One story was that she came from Ireland with her sister Ia, travelling across the sea on a lettuce leaf. Seanara then settled Zennor, while Ia settled Saint Ives, the lettuce leaf becoming the more well-known Welsh coracle.
Many other tales are also associated with the village, including a young girl called Cherry, who was whisked away to a magic land only to return a completely different person. There was also a cow that ate the bell-rope in the church, when it was made out of straw, causing a calamitous selection of rings followed a loud crash that echoed along the cliffs. But the most famous is the Mermaid of Zennor. In Cornish legend, mermaids are viewed in a positive light in comparison to other parts of the country. Their presence can be a magical one, which is in complete contrast to Dorset’s very own mermaid, known as the Veasta. In Zennor, a beautiful, but mysterious lady with long flowing hair would appear at the church, only on a sunny day, dressed in shimmering material that had not been seen before. She would sit at the back, away from the congregation, intently listening to the churchwarden’s son, Mathey Trewella, sing. Her stare would distract him, her dark eyes reminding him of the caves that lined the shoreline, and he became intoxicated, determined to find out who the lady was, but she would always disappear out of sight when the service was over. On her fifth visit, he chased her, catching up with her at the top of the path to Pendour Cove. The villagers saw Mathey walk away with her but never saw him again. A few years passed until a ship, anchored in Pendour Cove, heard a calling. They looked out to sea only to see a small head, bobbing above the waves, shouting at them to move their anchor as it was blocking her door to Mathey and their children. Sailors were always respectful of any mermaid they encountered, so they did as they were told and swiftly left the bay. Word came back to the village that this is where Mathey was, under the waves, enticed there by the mermaid. On a warm summer’s evening, it is said that singing can be heard coming from beneath the water.
From the 1930s, Zennor’s history was celebrated at the Wayside Museum but it closed in 2015 due to retirement. Starting life as a corn mill, it has since been converted into accommodation, sitting on the stream just to the west of the car park.
From the car park, head out onto the road and turn left. Walk up to the church where the Tinners Arms sits on the corner. The Tinners Arms was built in 1271 to accommodate the masons who were building the church tower but its name is taken from the activity of tin mining which was rife all around the county.
The church replaced an older building that possible dated back to the 6th century. After its Norman development in the 12th century the west tower was added by the masons and the north isle added in the 15th century. It experienced restoration during the Victorian period but has managed to retain many of its older elements.
At the entrance is a coffin rest, dating to a time when coffins would have travelled some distance across the landscape for the funeral. The pall bearers would rest the coffin here, while also taking a breather, before taking it into the church for the service. The church is surrounded by a small circular graveyard, the boundaries of which date back to the Bronze Age, when farming began to carve its way onto the land. It is argued that it was developed into an Iron Age enclosure before becoming a Christian site. Two Cornish crosses sit in the church yard, fixed onto the tombstone of Rev. William Borlase, Vicar of Zennor (died 1888), with a third in the vicarage garden. Other memorials have some unique dedications, one being John Quick (d. 1784), who ‘excell’d his equals’, and another to a ‘hen-pecked husband’. On the south side of the church is a bronze sundial depicting another image of a mermaid, dated 1737. Other interpretations claim it is showing crossed bones, (for death), and an angel head and wings (for immortality). Next to the church, in a private garden is a statue of St Senara. Inside, a worn Norman font remains, found in the vicarage garden, as well as a second one by the south door dating to the late 13th or early 14th century. In the north wall is the Burma star window, dedicated to those who fought in the Second Word War, while a memorial to unnamed sailors who have perished in shipwrecks in local waters as well as to WA Proctor, who died on a solitary round-the-world voyage is in the form of a hanging boat. Two medieval bench ends, dated between 1300 and 1400, portray the Mermaid of Zennor complete with a comb and mirror in her hands, is known as the Mermaids Chair, and is probably the most famous relic. The chair was inspiration for a novel of the same name written by Sue Monk Kidd, which was adapted into a film in 2006.
Pass the front of the church (or leave though the churchyard) and turn right up to the first of many 18th century stone gate stiles that cut across the ancient countryside. Walk alongside the old school hall and onto the footpath ahead. The small fields, creating a tight farming system, date back 4000 years with the boundaries, consisting of massive boulders, changing very little since. Another Cornish tale blames the giants of West Penwith for the landscape layout, moving the boulders to wherever they please. Follow the trodden path through a number of small fields and over a collection of stone stiles to reach Tremedda Farm. Zennor Hill’s stone peak rises on the right while the sea’s horizon fills the view to the left. Tremedda Farm has been with the same family since 1905 and are committed to farm in a sustainable but traditional method. They have also diversified into ice-cream, selling their now famed Moomaid of Zennor ice-cream to many visitors.
Cross the farm track with the 17th century farmhouse on the left, and continue in the same direction along the trodden paths, though patchwork fields and climbing the now familiar stone stiles to Lower Tregathen. The name translates to Rowen Tree Farm, a tree that, although uncommon in the landscape today, was believed to have properties of protection, especially against witches and other evil forces. The boulder strewn landscape above the hamlet, known as Burns Downs, was believed to be a popular witches spot. Lower Tregathen is little more than a 17th century farmhouse, pig’s house and barns, but just above the farm is Tregathen Cottage, in Higher Tregathen. In 1915, having spent a few nights at The Tinners Arms, the English novelist, D. H. Lawrence, and his German wife Frieda, rented out the cottage, now known as Tower House due to its distinctive square tower which was Lawrence’s bedroom. It became a place where he felt happy and free, enjoying the mystical beauty of the coastline while escaping the commotion and oppressiveness of London life. He also had a dream to build a haven for other like-minded people to share and enjoy. Sadly, the cultural climate was less accepting. Rumours spread of Frieda’s connections to the German military, encouraged by her own brother who just so happened to be Manfred von Richthofen, a famed World War I German pilot, nicknamed “The Red Baron”. The couple were accused of spying and signalling to German submarines off the Cornish coast, preparing a stock of petrol at the bottom of the cliffs and using smoke from their chimney to communicate. In 1917, after constant harassment by the armed forces’ authorities, Lawrence was forced to leave Cornwall. He and Frieda were given three days’ notice under the terms of the Defence of the Realm Act 1914 (DORA). However, the cottage continued to be an inspiration, just as DH Lawrence had hoped. In 1919, Virginia Woolf and her husband rented this same property, and many years later, Michael Morpurgo came to stay, writing his book ‘The White Horse of Zennor’ shortly after.
Cross over the farm track, onto the channelled, muddy path, cutting though fields. This old path is part of the Coffin Way. The route provided a way to transport corpses from their isolated settlements to the cemeteries that had burial rights. The Zennor Church Way led from Hellesvor, near St Ives, through Zennor and on to Pendeen, passing a number of churches along the way. Continue along the path to find the ruins of a small chapel. In 1833 it was recorded to be in use and able to seat up to 135 people. No other road leads to it apart from the Coffin Way, strengthening is pure role in the landscape. Around 1918 the chapel was closed, sold and left to merge into its surroundings.
Cut though the bushes back into open fields and continue along the well-marked Coffin Way to Wicca. Wicca is often associated with witchcraft, suggesting that these little settlements may have experienced some mysterious occurrences that were easily answered with the suggestion of witches. Nevertheless, their role was certainly prominent enough to determine the local names. Like the previously passed hamlets, Wicca dates from the Bronze Age and is topped with a 17th century farmhouse.
Take the stile between the farmhouse and barn and cut straight over the farmyard. Stay on the road skimming Boscubben Farm and turn left down a track following it into Treveal. On arriving at the hamlet, turn right around the farmhouse and down the hill. Pass the 18th century Treveal Cottage to then take the footpath on the left, into the trees. The road continues to the 17th century Treveal Mill, now a private home, sitting on the small stream that flows into River Cove.
Drop down over boulders into the woodland to the river to then rise up and veer gently to the left to meet the coastal path, River Cove emerging to the right. River Cove is currently closed to the public and instead is more frequently littered with lazy seals. Merge onto the coastal path, turning left with the views looking to the west over the wide open sea. The coastal path is currently a popular topic due to the new release of the film ‘The Salt Path’. Based on a book of the same name, it tells the story of a couple’s journey, surviving the hardships of life and finding solace in our natural environment.
To the north are the little Carrack Islands, the largest more commonly known as Seal Island. The name comes from the Cornish word Carrek for rock and is a rich wildlife haven. Boat trips from St Ives sometimes circle the rocky outcrop, but in 1916 the Enrico Parodi, a 339-foot-long (103 m), 3,818-ton steel vessel, having already been in one accident, was being towed and sank by the Carracks, remaining a diving attraction to this day.
Walk along the edge of Treveal Cliff and around Mussel Point for Wicca Pool to come into view below. Access to the pool is not easy and requires a fair bit of scrambling over rocks. The pool was once a much more industrial landscape having been a small port to transporting granite (used to build St Ives’ church) in the 15th century. Follow the path over the grassy, boulder strewn hillside to then drop down into the valley. Cross over the small stream at its waterfall, as it flows to Wicca Pool, using the large stepping stones, while upstream it returns to the home and loved landscape of DH Lawrence.
Climb up the steps the opposite side and continue on the coastal path along Tregathen Cliff. Gently zig zag around the peak and down towards the beach, accessible over a short scramble down across rocks. Follow the coastline, cobnstantly climbing the boulders, to then divert sharply to the left. Climb steeply up the hill and over a little stream using the boulders as stepping stones but being careful not to lose the path. Stay at the same height around Porthzennor Cove to then drop down to the right.
When the path splits bear to the right sticking to the coastal path to then climb back up to the summit of a rocky outcrop. The cliffs here rise to over 60 metres (200 ft.) with the highest point of the headland at 96 metres (314 ft.) above sea level. The Head was mined extensively for copper and tin in the 19th century, and some dark caves, known as drainage audits, remain visible on the eastern side. Meanwhile the rocky coves are usually populated with seals, seabirds or hunting kestrels. Circle around Zennor Head with ten views opening out to the west.
Walk back inland with Pendour Cove down on the right, home of the mermaid, Mathey Trewella and their family. Climb over a stile onto a track with Carn Cobba on the right. In its gardens are the ruins of Eglosmeor Water Mill, built in 1799. It was abandoned after the great flood of 1894 when a 20ft wave of water hit the building.
Follow the road back into the village of Zennor to return to the pub and car park. However, another little diversion is also possible. Once back at the church, turn left passing the old school hall on the right. Keep left to continue up the track, between the cottages towards the Giants Rock. The Giants Rock is a Logan Stone (a stone that rocks) and shaped like a stone axe. Over time it has managed to gain more stability but can still be moved with effort. Legend accompanies the stone claiming that if you touch it nine times at mid-night (or without it moving – depends which story you hear first), any woman will become a witch. Behind the Giants Stone, is the Zennor Stone Row. Four stones stand in a line within an Iron Age field system which remains in use today. Two of the stones are of historic date, but one may be a natural earth fast boulder and the fourth may have been erected in the prehistoric period but moved to serve as a gatepost. Therefore it is debatable if it is an official stone row. Both the Giants Rock and the Stone Row are on private property but the Giants Rock is just visible from the track, rising above the bracken, on the right.
Retrace your steps back into the village. Turn left past the pub and then right to return to the car park.
