Garden design, development and embellishment became the fashion amongst the landowning gentry of the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries, splashing their cash on elements that had no purpose other to be admired. ‘Sanctuaries’, ‘observatories’, ‘thinking towers’, ‘memorials’ and ‘commemorations’ popped up on hilltops and in hidden valleys, usually viewable through the manors windows. A selection of follies and obelisks still scatter the landscape of Dorset, some with the chance to explore.
Follies
The word folly has two meanings; the first being something foolish, the second an ornamental building. It was an act of folly that they were built with no purpose and even more so as they were often constructed at a great cost. During the 17th century the interest in follies grew as the landscapes of great county estates were designed and the buildings were included as decoration. Designs ranged from Roman temples to castle ruins, with some maintaining older ruins as follies. They are frequently named after the landowner who commissioned them or the activity it was supposedly used for.
The selection below does not include grottos or some smaller follies included within private estates but instead those that are isolated, easy to access or placed on a prominent hilltop.
The Philosopher’s Tower, Wimborne St Giles
1702
On the road between Wimborne and Cranborne stands The Philosopher’s Tower, built by the 3rd Earl of Shaftesbury, Anthony Ashley Cooper, in the early 1700s. The family held the St Giles Estate, just to the west, which included the estate park of 400 acres. It featured a serpentine lake, garden ornaments, a grotto and a 1000-yard avenue of beech trees. The third Earl retired from politics aged 31 but was also a noted philosopher. He built the tower (the first in Dorset) and saw it as his retreat from the world, a place where he could enjoy “Ye Fields and Woods, my Refuge from the toilsom World of Business” while overlooking his estate and the wild Cranborne Chase.
The tower has two storeys topped with a dome and with a basement beneath, although it is showing its age as it has started to lean! It is on private land but can easily be viewed from the road.
Creech Grange Arch
1746
Creech Grange Arch stands on the ridge of the Purbeck Hills. It was built by Denis Bond of Creech Grange, just to the north, in 1746. It is constructed in the form of a triple arch of ashlar stone. The central archway is topped with battlements and flanked by stone wall wings with smaller doorways with more pinnacles.
The Great Wood, to the north of the monument, has been split, maintaining its visual link to the south face of Creech Grange. Looking up from the house the arch would frame the sky, the reason for its existence was purely to impress.
Horton Tower
1750
The Sturt family owned the manor at Horton and it was Lord Humphrey Sturt, MP for Dorset, who built Horton tower. It is a triangular folly made from brick, contains 6 storeys and is 140ft. (43m) high. At the time of its construction it was the tallest secular building in the country. Its purpose was for Humphrey to watch hunting on Cranborne Chase when he became too old to ride. A fireplace was placed in the middle to keep him warm. However, he was 25 in 1750, when it was built, so it was either an excuse or very good planning. He also owned Crichel House, where he remodelled the gardens with a lake and drowned the old village. He lived on to 1786, aged 62, fully enjoying the Dorset countryside.
Over time it fell into disrepair, but other uses have been found for it. For a short while it was open to the public and it was also featured in a 1960’s Thomas Hardy film, ‘The Mayor of Casterbridge’. It is currently being used as a telecommunications mast which helps to fund its upkeep.
Sherborne
1755
Sherborne Castle already had a real ruin in its gardens but this was clearly not enough for the famous landscape designer, Capability Brown. It was Sir Walter Raleigh who moved from the Castle and constructed the new one out of the old hunting lodge in the 16th century, leaving the castle to fall into ruins. In the mid-18th century, with the castle now in the ownership of Lord Digby, Capability Brown dammed up the River Yeo and constructed the lake, creating a romantic view from the new castle to the to the old ruins. In 1755, the view was further enhanced with the construction of a mock tower, by local builder Daniel Penny. He also installed the crenellated wall behind in an effort to soften the castle ruins into the garden landscape.
Sherborne Gardens are open for visitors during the summer months. The old castle ruins are managed separately by English Heritage.
Lulworth – Clare Towers, North Lodges and the Fort
1773 – Clare Towers
The large estate of Lulworth has grown, shrunk and been enhanced over time. Clare Towers was part of the larger Lulworth estate park wall which enclosed the old parkland. Its central archway, which allowed access for horses and pedestrians, still survives. The name possibly dates back to the first Lord of Lulworth, Sir Humphry Weld, as his wife was called Clare and therefore the tower could honour her. Although it began life with purpose – a gate house to the park – it slowly began to crumble becoming the romantic ruin, supported by ivy, which it is today.
1785 – North Lodges
Clare Towers neighbours the North Lodges, standing either side of an old metal gate, shaped like a clover leaf and topped with battlements. They were built in 1785, after the park wall had been completed, and sit on what was once the main drive to the castle from the north. They were the home of the park’s game keepers and still were until the 1950s. Although in a ruinous state today fireplaces, doorways and stairwells can just be made out. Looking directly through the gates gives you a view towards the coastline. The towers of Lulworth Castle can be seen rising above the tree tops and on high on the hill beyond are the wrinkly ramparts of Flower’s Barrow, an Iron Age Hillfort.
1859 – Fort
Within the estate, but outside the park, is Lulworth Castle’s Lake. It is a manmade construction dating from the 1830s, made by Joseph Weld (1777-1863). He was a keen yachtsman and a founding member of the Royal Yacht squadron and remembered as one of the earliest Englishmen to build and handle fast-sailing yachts. His best known boat was The Arrow, which took part in the first America’s Cup race in 1851. In 1859 he designed and built a model of a 12 gun brig of war, which was stored in the purpose built fort sitting on the edge of the lake. It was, sadly, slowly taken apart by treasure hunters and now longer exists. Instead the little folly remains with no purpose other than decorating the large wild lake.
All the buildings are viewable using public rights of way, however, Lulworth Castle Estate have a set of their own walks which, when the estate is open, runs closely past all three sites.
Charborough
1790
Charborough Estate is one of the oldest and largest private estates of the county. It was held by King Harold before the Norman invasion and then it was passed through a number of Norman knights to the Erle family, whose descendants still own it today, the current owner being Richard Grosvenor Plunkett-Ernle-Erle-Drax, the MP of South Dorset.
The house is surrounded by 13,870 acres of impressive gardens and a deer park, with the majority of the land bordered by a long boundary wall, split by gates adorned with a lion and a 5 legged stag. The wall was constructed from over 2 million bricks and is considered to be one of the longest brick walls in England. It was commissioned by John Samuel Wanley Sawbridge in 1841, who had married the heiress Jane Frances Erle-Drax in 1827. He was known to be slightly eccentric and extravagant with his developments. He owned Holnest Manor, to the north, where he built his own mausoleum that ended up overshadowing Holnest church. It was demolished after his death as no one was willing to pay for its upkeep.
Charborough Tower was built by Edward Drax in 1790 but in 1838 it was struck by lightning. Sawbridge took it upon himself to rebuild and kept to his usual extravagant design by increasing the height from 80ft. (24m) to 120ft. (37m). The octagonal shape hides 161 steps inside while outside gargoyles and beasts are carved into the label stops.
The tower is not accessible, as it is set deep within the private estate, but its towering height is visible for miles around.
Kimmeridge
1830
At the peak of the cliff at Kimmeridge stands Clavell Tower. It looks along the Jurassic coastline to the west, over Kimmeridge Bay, to the towering peak of Gad Cliff and the Isle of Portland out to sea. To the east is the peak of Swyre Head formed from the same Portland stone as the Isle. The tower was built in 1830 by Rev John Clavell-Richards, as an observatory, to mark his 70th birthday. The architect, Robert Vining, created a Tuscan style building similar to another of his properties – the Spa at Nottington – and constructed it all out of local materials. As a young boy Thomas Hardy courted Eliza Bright Nichols, a daughter of a local coastguard, and often spent time at the tower. He later included a sketch, done by his own hands, in his ‘Wessex Poems’ publication in 1898.
By 1914 the tower had become derelict and in the 1930s it was gutted by fire. The edge of the cliff was slowly encroaching on the tower’s foundations and its idyllic location was in jeopardy. In 2002 Dr Mansel of Smedmore approached the Landmark Trust, the charity which preserves interesting old buildings, with the sole aim to save the tower. It became one of the charity’s most ambitious conservation projects to date, the only solution being its complete dismantling and re-building on sounder footings, further back from the cliff’s edge. It now stands safely at about 35 ft. (11 m) high and 330 ft. (100 m) above the sea. It is owned and managed by the Landmark trust who offers it as holiday accommodation. Its old foundations are left as a scar on the cliff’s edge, with only a matter of time before they drop into the sea.
Hardy’s Monument
1844
Hardy’s Monument is dedicated to Vice-Admiral Sir Thomas Masterman Hardy (1769 – 1839), who lived in Portesham as a boy and again as an older man at Portesham House. He affectionately referred to the village as “Possum”. He should not be confused with Thomas Hardy the poet, who was born a year after the Admiral died, possibly influencing his mother’s choice in the name.
Thomas Masterman Hardy served as flag captain to Admiral Lord Nelson, and commanded HMS Victory at the Battle of Trafalgar against a combined French and Spanish fleet in October 1805. It was the most important sea battle of the 19th century, resulting in the victorious British Navy becoming the world’s largest sea power for the next 100 years. They worked together well, respected each other as seamen and stood alongside each other through battles in St Vincent, the Nile and Copenhagen as well as Trafalgar. But so important was the role played by Hardy at Trafalgar that it overshadows many notable occurrences in his career. He served the state under no less than four sovereigns. King William IV had the highest regard for him, he was rendered invaluable to his country and it was said that his tact and prudence alone saved England from a third war with the United States.
During the famous battle, Nelson was shot. He was certain he was going to die and begged Hardy to “take care of poor Lady Hamilton”. As he became weaker he uttered his famous line “Kiss me, Hardy”. Hardy knelt and kissed Nelson on the cheek. He then stood for a minute or two before kissing him on the forehead. Nelson replied “God bless you, Hardy” and “Thank God I have done my duty.” Nelson died three hours after the fatal shot.
The monument is 69 ft. (21m) high, erected in 1844 and visible over half the county. Some claim it looks over the best view in Dorset, with the full 18 mile stretch of the Chesil Beach to the south, Devon to the west, the Dorset coastal cliffs to the east and the distant valleys of Dorset to the north. The site for the monument was chosen because the Hardy family wanted it to be in a position which could be used as a landmark for shipping. The monument has been used on navigational charts since 1846 and is visible from a distance of 60 miles. It was designed to look like a spyglass, as Admiral Hardy would have used aboard his ship. Its eight corners are aligned with the compass points and is built of local Portland stone. In 1938 it was bought by the National Trust for £15.
The site is open all the time with free parking. There are times when the tower itself is open and you can climb the 120 internal steps to the viewpoint at the top!
Durlston
1863
In 1863 the 320 acre countryside estate of Durlston was bought by local mason turned businessman, George Burt (1816 –1894), with the ambition to turn both Durlston and Swanage into a fashionable seaside spa. He had grown up working with the local stone, moving to London aged 19, and returned as a wealthy man wanting to give something back to the town. The attractions he developed within Durlston include the historic Great Globe and a folly which became known as the castle.
In 1885 the railway arrived in Swanage, and later, the growth in car ownership. This meant an increase in people travelling for leisure, especially to Dorset with Durlston being on the top of everyone’s list. At the end of the 19th century, and into the 20th, plans were drawn up for 88 houses to be placed along the cliff top. Thankfully they were unsuccessful and the cliffs are left as wild as they should be!
Today, located on the very edge of the Isle of Purbeck, it is still described as a coastal paradise. It has been designated a Heritage Coast, Special Area of Conservation, Site of Special Scientific Interest, Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and National Nature Reserve. Its offshore waters are also part of a Marine Research Area.
Rushmore
2009
Augustus Pitt Rivers inherited the estate of Rushmore and proceeded to create the pleasure grounds of the Larmer Tree Gardens in 1880. They contained a selection of ornate buildings including an art gallery, a bandstand, a magical Roman Temple, decorative Indian houses and an open-air Singing Theatre. In the evenings the Gardens would be lit up by a series of lamps, a sight Thomas Hardy described in 1895 as ‘the prettiest sight I ever saw in my life’. Also on his estate Augustus created tree avenues, a horse race course, tennis courts, a golf course and a large enclosure containing exotic wild animals. In combination with his historical and ground breaking archaeological museum, he was able to create a unique experience for the Victorian visitor.
After his death in 1900, the gardens fell into disrepair and were not restored until the 1990s, when the estate was inherited by Michael Pitt-Rivers. In 1999 a new Larmer Tree was planted to mark the Millennium and the gardens today are used for weddings and events as well as being the home of The End of the Road Festival.
Both Michael and his partner, William Gronow-Davis, were collectors of art, especially Asian works of art as William was born in India. In 2009, having inherited the estate from Michael, William embarked on building the first folly in Britain for 100 years. Despite being in a conservation area, planning was permitted as it was to house five O2 mobile phone masts. However, the deal fell through but the folly was still allowed to be built and, therefore, adhering to the official rules of a folly – that is serves no purpose! The terracotta design is based on an Indian temple and stands at a height of 65ft. (20m). The domes at the peak are still capable of housing phone masts in the future.
Forcey’s Tower
2014
Hidden deep in a dry valley north of Dorchester stands Forcey’s Tower. Constructed in 2014, the tower is named after the Forcey family who once farmed Bushes Bottom Farm, now nothing more than a barn. It marks the centenary of the family leaving in 1914, but is also a monument to mark the transition of farming practices to a more sustainable way of working.
It is a simple design, not too imposing to distract from the surrounding landscape, but big enough to be impressed by once you are standing next to it. A small thin entrance and exit split the tower with small seats in the centre and the bell to ring high above. Without this it would have been considered to be an obelisk.
It was commissioned by the Cape Farewell Trust and developed by the Dorset based sculptor Guy Martin. It is set in an isolated spot only accessible by using the passing footpaths and bridleways.
Obelisks
Obelisks have a much more historical significance than the idle follies. The structures date back to the ancient Egyptians and Greeks who viewed them as a symbol of life and death. The structures were characterized by a four-sided square base that tapered into a pyramid at the top. It was believed that each of the four sides attracted the rays of the sun god Ra, and allowed the resurrection of the deceased. Ancient obelisks are monolithic and therefore consist of a single stone whereas most modern obelisks are made of several stones built on top of one another.
Thornhill
1727
Thornhill House, near Stalbridge, was built by the well-known artist, Sir James Thornhill, in 1730, who painted part of the dome of St Paul’s Cathedral. Just before the construction of the new house he erected the obelisk in the gardens in 1727 to commemorate the accession of King George II and Queen Caroline. Standing at a height of approximately 50ft. (15m) it was felled by a storm in 1836 but rebuilt soon after.
The obelisk sits on private land but is skimmed by a footpath to the east and the A357 to the west. It is also visible for miles around.
Weatherby
1761
Weatherby Castle, anciently known as Bindogladia, is an Iron Age hillfort with signs of occupation in the centre. From afar it looks nothing more than simple woodland capping a small hill, but on closer inspection it is a beautiful example of a defensive hill fort, its ramparts still an effort to navigate. It was built in the 3rd century BC, by the Durotriges, the local tribe that also built Maiden Castle, and, like Maiden Castle, evidence shows that the fort was abandoned in AD43, shortly after the Roman arrival. Its location is right next to an important Roman road (travelling from London to Exeter), which clearly had a dramatic effect on the residents of Bindogladia.
Within the centre stands Weatherby Obelisk. Despite its towering height of 60ft. (18m), it is not visible outside of the fort, completely hidden by the neighbouring trees. A copper ball sits at the top and now, stained green, it almost looks like the world. At the base is the inscription EMP 1761, suspected to be Edmund Morton Pleydell – the owner of Milborne House in Milborne St Andrew at the time. The obelisk would have been visible from the house, before all the trees grew. Although the Manor no longer exists, the present farmhouse stands on its site and probably incorporates part of the original building. The obelisk was stabilised in 1990
Moreton (Frampton)
1784
On Fir Hill, south of the village of Moreton, is the Moreton (or Frampton) Obelisk. It stands at a height of 70ft. (21m) with a 10ft. (3m) high urn standing on its pyramidal peak and is the tallest in the county. It was erected in 1784 by Captain John Houlton in memory of his friend James Frampton Esq, of Moreton House, who died that same year, and built of Portland Stone. At the base of the obelisk were two plaques (one in English, one in Latin) commemorating James Frampton’s life. For safety reasons there were removed and are now in the lynch gate to Moreton cemetery, where Lawrence of Arabia lies.
Kingston Lacy
1827 Philae
The 30ft. (9m) high, pale pink granite, ancient Egyptian Philae Obelisk dates back to 150 BC. It originally stood as one of a pair at the entrance to the temple of Isis on the island of Philae in Aswan in southern Egypt. It was discovered by William John Bankes of Kingston Lacy during his travels around Egypt between 1815 and 1819. He then embarked on transporting it back to England but it fell into the River Nile. Thankfully they were able to fish it out and continue on the journey, arriving in London in 1821. With some financial support from Arthur Wellesley, the Duke of Wellington (1769–1852), it travelled down to Dorset and was erected in the gardens of Kingston Lacy. The specific spot was decided Wellesley and was raised into position by 19 horses in 1827. The second obelisk of the pair did not survive so well, but a part of it was also brought back and now lies in the shadow of its twin.
The Obelisk played an important part in the translation of Ancient Greek and Egyptian hieroglyphic scripts. Breaking up the recognisable elements on the Philae Obelisk enabled the translations of other historical discoveries.
1887 – Jubilee
A second obelisk was erected in the gardens in 1887 to commemorate Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee. It stands at 25ft. (8m) high and is made from local Portland stone. It was commissioned by Sir Walter Ralph Bankes on his 34th birthday.
Encombe
1835
Encombe House is set deep in a natural bowl complete with a lake and water works. This led to it gaining the nickname of the Golden Bowl due to its fertility aided by the sheltered and protected location. Between the years 1740 to 1765, Encombe was rebuilt, redesigned and landscaped by John Pitt (cousin of the Prime Minister William Pitt). Pitt also developed a number of circuit carriage rides to take advantage of his newly installed designs which included a lake, a grotto, a cascade on the coast as well as the views, both out to sea and inland to Corfe Castle. However, despite these alterations he sold the property in 1766.
The property came into the hands of John Scott, who was made the 1st Earl of Eldon in 1821. At the high end of the Golden Bowl sits a 40ft (12m) high obelisk made from Purbeck stone. It was erected in 1835 by the First Lord Eldon in honour of his brother Baron Stewell (William Scott). The Baron died the following year, aged 90, followed by his brother in 1838.
The obelisk is on private property but can be seen from footpaths surrounding the estate.
Trinity house Portland
1844
The Trinity House Obelisk was built in 1844 to warn ships off the ragged coast of the southern tip of the Isle of Portland. It stands at 23ft. (7m) high and is constructed out of local Portland Stone. With only three sides, on its northern face is the date of construction and the initials for Trinity House. It was nearly demolished in 2002 after Trinity House claimed it was too expensive to maintain, the monument constantly getting lashed by both the abrasive south westerly coastal winds and waves. The application was withdrawn after outrage from locals.
Lulworth
1850
Two triangular obelisks at 24ft. (7m) high (similar but slimmer than the Trinity obelisk) were erected on the coastline in 1850 for the use of Her Majesty’s ships as navigational beacons. Some claim it was for practice firing others say it was to aid ships to enter Portland Harbour. One sits high on Chaldon Down to the west of Daggers Gate, the second is on the cliff top, accessible using the coastal path.
Swanage
1892
In 1892, the same George Burt who built Durlston Castle erected the Swanage Obelisk. Its purpose was to commemorate the provision of a new supply of drinking water for the town which arrived in 1883. The hexagonal, granite monument was brought to Swanage from London, having originally been outside the St Mary of the Nativity Church, on the corner of King William Street and Lombard Street. The Obelisk was taken down in 1941 as it was a landmark that might have aided enemy aircraft during WWII, but was re-erected in 1952, with a broken segment set to the side.
