From the steep slopes and waterways that split Somerset and Wiltshire explore the forests of Stourhead. Find Jack’s Castle, used as a beacon site to call troops, and discover King Alfred’s Tower, its peak visible for miles around. Venture deep into the ancient Selwood Forest, haunted by forces that could steer you off your path. Weave between the trees and dip into the valleys of small tributaries of the Stour to climb up to one of two hidden Iron Age hillforts. Skim the mighty earthworks to descend to Six Wells Bottom, the springs included in the Stourton Family Crest. Climb up to Peter’s Pump, an installation that was once critical to Bristol’s water supply, to return to Tower Road and the path of the Harrow Way, one of the oldest routes in the country.
Distance: 5.5 miles/9km (See bottom of page for route)
Time: 3 hours
Ability: Medium, two big climbs.
Max height: 900ft
Min height: 502ft
Total climb: 549ft
Terrain: Tracks, paths, fields and roads. Using public rights of way in combination with National Trust paths.
Start Point: King Alfred’s Tower Car Park. (Postcode: BA12 6RJ, Grid Reference: ST748352, What Three Words: rides.linguists.waltzed).
Map: OS Explorer 142 Shepton Mallet and Mendip Hills
How to get there: From the A303 turn off onto the B3092 heading north. After about 2 miles turn left onto Stourton Lane then take the next left onto Tower Road. The entrance to the car park will appear shortly on the right just before the forest engulfs the lane.
Dogs: On leads where livestock is present and in accordance with any notices on the walk and The Countryside Code. No dogs allowed on Park Hill Camp.
Refreshments: None on route but nearby is The Spread Eagle Inn in Stourhead or The Old Red Lion just outside of Bruton.
Toilets: None on route but public toilets are available at Stourhead.
Related Walks: Wardour Castle, Stourton Caundle, Child Okeford, Sandford Orcas, Chideock, Stonehenge and Bourton.
Walk
The thick woodland, north of the Stourhead estate, hides many secrets. The invisible county boundary, between Wiltshire and Somerset, uses the steep slopes, old roads and water ways to mark the physical divide. The plateaued peak is denied the wide open views by the forests, as if the trees are also sworn to secrecy, while their roots merge into ancient earthworks. The area is known as the Selwood Triangle and comes with the reputation that mysterious forces often trick travellers down the wrong tracks.
From the car park, join its entrance and turn right, away from the road. Take the next path on the left into Jack’s Castle Plantation and walk straight ahead to the corner. On the bend, where the slope splits the two counties, sits the mighty earthwork of Jack’s Castle (also known as Selwood Barrow or Jack Straw’s Castle). At 262m high the Bronze Age bell barrow rises a further 3 metres above the ground. It was excavated by the antiquarian Richard Colt Hoare (1758 – 1838) and found to contain a cremation burial with a dagger in a wooden sheath and a stone axe. Its prominent position also led to it being used as a beacon site in time of war.
Retrace your footsteps back to the car park and out onto Tower Road, which has been suggested to be part of the ancient Harrow Way. The Harrow Way, also known as the Hard Way or Heargway, is believed to be one of the oldest routes in the country, dating back to the Neolithic period. From Seaton in Devon it passes through some iconic landscapes including some standing stones in Corscombe a Roman villa in Halstock Stonehenge and on to Winchester, Canterbury and Dover in Kent. Not only does it link many spiritual sites but it is also thought that the route was encouraged by the ancient tin trade from Cornwall, sticking to higher ground and avoiding the marshy terrain and wild woodland below.
Cross straight over and turn right to walk straight to King Alfred’s Tower rising up ahead. The surrounding Forest of Selwood was a possible rallying point for King Alfred, using a beacon on the Barrow as a calling card. He was also aware of the mysterious forces that were known to reside in the forest and used them to protect his troops when they camped here before an attack on the invading Danes. Just to the south, where the three counties of Dorset, Somerset and Wiltshire meet, hidden on a golf course today, stands Egbert’s Stone, placed there by King Alfred’s Grandfather. It is another location where Alfred recruited his troops to then launch the Battle of Edington (Ethandun) in May of 878AD. Alfred succeeded in defeating the Danes, led by Guthrum the Old, but so much blood was shed that the River Stour was stained red all the way to Christchurch.
Alfred’s Tower, on the tip of Kingsettle Hill, is a folly commissioned by Mr Henry Hoare II of Stourhead (1705-1785). Using over 1 million bricks, work began in 1762 and was completed in 1772. Standing at almost 50m high it is a triangular structure with towers in each corner, designed by Henry Flitcroft, a Palladian architect. The centre is hollow apart from a 250-step spiral staircase in one corner, climbing up to a viewing platform which provides panoramic, 360 degree views over the surrounding countryside. There are four main reasons for its construction. The first was to celebrate King Alfred’s victory over the Danes and a small statue of him is embedded into the south east wall alongside an inscription:
ALFRED THE GREAT
AD 879 on this Summit
Erected his Standard
Against Danish Invaders
To him We owe The Origin of Juries
The Establishment of a Militia
The Creation of a Naval Force
ALFRED The Light of a Benighted Age
Was a Philosopher and a Christian
The Father of his People
The Founder of the English
MONARCHY and LIBERTY
The second reason was to celebrate the end of the Seven Years’ War against France, the third was to mark the ascension of King George III and the final reason was to show off by creating an eye-catching landscape design within the Stourhead estate. It was damaged in 1944 when a Canadian Noorduyn Norseman aeroplane crashed into it in thick fog, killing all five on board. Only two years later it was given to the National Trust as part of the estate who, in the 1980s, restored the building. Today it is still under their management and is open at times during the warmer months.
Return to the entrance to the Tower’s field and turn right following the track deeper into Selwood Forest. Stay on the same path keeping high on the hill for about 800m or so. Cross straight over the tracks to drop down the slope, following the bridleway signs. Stourhead sits in the larger parish of Stourton with Gasper, often shortened to Stourton. It is dominated by the manor but is also a small village and community.
The house itself is a large stately home set in a 2650 acre estate with gardens and lakes. Its history dates back to the Norman Conquest when it was owned by the Stourton family, the named gained from both the river and landscape. Their lands also included the small village of Stourton Caundle which was home to the Stourton Castle (similar in appearance to Wardour Castle). In 1535, William Stourton, became the 7th Baron Stourton. His main house was the manor of Stourhead and so in his older years he hired a William Hartgill (a Protestant) to manage some of the outlying estates (these were growing quickly as he purchased more land from the Crown during the dissolution). The rumblings of national discontent were also growing due to the friction between religions. William Stourton’s marriage to his wife, Elizabeth, was an unhappy one and his relationship with his son, Charles, was strained. Instead, his extra-marital affair to a Miss Agnes Rice was a public scandal. Agnes was moved into the Manor at Stourhead while Elizabeth made her home at the castle of Stourton Caundle. William died in 1548, leaving his estate to Agnes – which was strongly contested by Charles, now the 8th Baron Stourton (and a devout Catholic). Meanwhile, unbeknownst to the Stourton’s, Hartgill was claiming some lands as his own while befriending Elizabeth on terms that could be called inappropriate. These collections of wrong doings, on top of religious disagreements, greatly angered Charles and an attack on Hartgill led to him being put in gaol. On his release, with the condition that he apologises, he immediately returned to Stourton Caundle where he tricked Hartgill and his son, John, to a meeting. He subsequently attacked them, took them prisoner in the dungeon of the manor house (whether it be Stourhead or Stourton Caundle is contested!) and slit their throats. The murders were eventually discovered and Charles was sent to the Tower of London. He was hung in the market square in Salisbury in 1557 using a silken cord due to his status. A pardon from Queen Mary was apparently delivered to Wilton House, but did not make it to the city in time. Charles’ wife, Lady Ann Stanley, who still lived in Stourton Caundle was evicted and given only days to pay debts. Anne managed to find happiness in her second marriage to John Arundell of Lanherne, Cornwall, whose nephew owned Wardour Castle. They lived out their remaining years with eight children. The castle of Stourton Caundle fell into ruins, the stones reused in walls, barns and buildings of the village. Further down the family line, the 10th Baron was imprisoned in the Tower of London as it was believed he was involved in the gunpowder plot, but nothing was proved and he was released. Due to debt, the Stourtons slowly sold of the estate and moved to Bonham, just to the south. The family today retain the title of Baron and add to their name the titles of Lord Mowbray and Baron Seagrave.
Drop down the hill, crossing straight over the paths approaching from either side to meet the edge of the woods. Follow the boundary around to the right and through a bar gate to merge onto Pen Hill. Pen Hill continues south to meet one of two Iron Age Hillforts in the area, known as Kenwalch’s Castle. The small road cuts straight through its centre splitting the rising ramparts in two. However, the road possibly uses the original entrances suggesting this track was used by the ancient people to access the hilltop, the Harrow Way and the spiritual site of Jack’s Castle.
Take the next footpath on the left, just before the road steepens, around a farm gate and into an open field. Walk straight over crossing a small source of the Stour as it begins its journey south, flowing into the valley below entering the landscape gardens and lakes of Stourhead. Climb up the hill, back into the trees and turn right, keeping tight to the woodland edge.
The banker Henry Hoare (1677-1725) bought the Stourton estate in 1717. In 1721 he went on to demolish the original manor and replace it with the impressive Palladian mansion which stands today, renaming it Stourhead. The building was completed in 1725, the same year Henry died, so it was passed onto his son, Henry Hoare II (1705-1785), then aged only 19. Many of Henry II’s children died young, as well as both his wives, so he channelled his grief into developing the landscape gardens. After damming the River Stour to create large ornamental lakes he decorated the borders by constructing classical temples (dedicated to Ceres, Hercules and Apollo), mystical grottoes, stone bridges, caves and rare, exotic trees. All the buildings still stand today and the Temple of Apollo was used as a filming location for the 2005 film Pride and Prejudice, when Mr Darcy first proposes to Elizabeth in the rain. Henry opened his gardens up to visitors and they were hugely admired. His father gained the nickname ‘Good Henry’ for his treatment of the poor while younger Henry gained the name ‘Magnificent Henry’ for his enterprises, often filled with art.
In 1785 the estate was passed through Henry II’s daughter, Anne, to her son Richard Colt Hoare (1758-1838), the aforementioned antiquarian. He had a passion for history and took full advantage of the wealth of ancient activity on the land, spending a great deal of time accumulating research and creating a collection of books, maps and drawings. In the wider landscape he planted over 90,000 trees replacing much of the ancient forest of Selwood which had been cleared for common land, enhancing the now famous Stourhead gardens.
Colt Hoare also renovated the obelisk in 1839, originally built but his grandfather in 1746 which had replaced an earlier monument. He also added a memorial plaque, in memory of Henry Hoare II. The top is surmounted by a sun disk as the obelisk was an Egyptian symbol of the ever shining sun.
A series of unfortunate events led to the family’s eventual downfall. The agricultural depression of the 19th century led to parcels of land having to be sold off. In 1902 a devastating fire struck requiring costly renovation. The last owner of the estate, Henry Hugh Arthur Hoare, set about rebuilding but his only son was then killed in the Great War. He began to struggle maintaining both the house and gardens and so, in 1946, he gave Stourhead to the National Trust
Follow the track around to the left with a valley dropping to the right. On meeting a T-junction, the track to the right leads to the Convent, built by Henry II around 1760. Constructed from limestone and flint with little towers and a thatched roof, its purpose was to act as a pit stop for those riding around the estate and up to King Alfred’s Tower. One of the ceilings is reportedly covered with stones from Chesil Beach. During the 20th century it was converted to a cottage and has since been in private ownership. In 2024 it was put up for sale for £850,000.
Turn right cutting straight through Baker’s Copse. Gently curve to the right and leave through the farm gate in the corner out into the open landscape, keeping the boundary on the right. Head through another farm gate to merge onto a shallow Holloway and follow it down to a little stream. Climb up to Tucking Mill Hanging and turn sharply left, through a gate, onto a footpath alongside the trees. Head through the final farm gate, marking the shrub land edge of the lost Tucking Mill site. Continue for a further 250 metres or so and, after a small rise, take the next National Trust path on the right, climbing steeply up the hill.
At the top, turn left to arrive at the entrance of the second hillfort of the area known as Park Hill Camp (no dogs allowed). It has never been excavated but within its western corner evidence of Iron Age settlement has been discovered, which predates the hillfort itself, suggesting a longer period of occupation. Medieval evidence has also been unearthed in the south eastern corner but has been damaged by timber extraction. To the far east, in the wider landscape, is Whitesheet Hill, an area rich with ancient activity dating back to the Neolithic period. There is little doubt that the two hillforts of Park Hill Camp and Kenwalch’s Castle were somehow involved with the wealth of earthworks on Whitesheet, all connected by the ancient Harrow Way.
Leave the hillfort to access the track on its eastern edge, or by using the dog walkers path along its boundary, and turn right. Continue on the high path for about 250 metres or so to take the next path turning sharply left, following the red arrow. Drop down the hill and out of the trees to merge onto the open landscape of Six Wells Bottom. Continue in the same direction, climbing up the hill with the lakes of Stourhead in the valley below.
Six Wells Bottom is the source of the sixty five mile length of the River Stour. The ancient 14th century pumping house of St Peter’s Pump (sometimes known as St. Agnes Pump) marks the spring, positioned here by Henry Hoare in 1768. The pump originally stood at the junction of Peter Street and Dolphin Street in Bristol and was a major part of the city’s water supply for nearly 300 years. On production the stone was intricately carved but much of it has been badly eroded. The water level has since dropped and so it doesn’t accurately measure the source of the river today.
Six Wells Bottom, named after the six wells that were once positioned here, has now shrunk to just one. However, it was not only immortalised in name but also in the Stourton’s family crest, despite the name Six Wells only first appearing in 1822. The origin of the springs is apparently down to King Alfred the Great. The story claims that after tiring from their fierce Battle of Edington, King Alfred and his soldiers prayed for water, and up rose the six springs.
On approaching the pump take the track on the left, over a stile and back into woodland. Climb up the hill and keep to the same track that follows the edge of the trees, all the way to Tower Road. Turn left and either follow the lane on the route of the old Harrow Way or stay within the Stourhead landscape, following the path that runs parallel. After about 400m or so turn right, returning to the car park and your vehicle.
