Stourton Caundle

Discover a landscape lost in history, a small village once home to castle which witnessed both success and tragedy. The village was the marital home of Dick Whittington, the inspiration of the fairy-tale, before the family experienced sadness through both plague and murder. However, the village was possibly saved by the controversial presence of cats, their legacy living on in a lane’s name. The castle was lost but rose again in tales of the Famous Five, written in Manor Farm, the summer home of Enid Blyton. Search out the ruins of the castle while passing the remains of the 13th century chapel and old fishponds. Follow the river upstream to the deserted village of Woodrow, now marked with a lonely bench in memory to a cousin of the famous explorer Ranulph Fiennes. Enjoy wide open views over the Blackmore Vale to the high hills of Okeford and Bulbarrow, topped with the Iron Age hillfort of Rawlsbury. Return to the valley past pockets of ancient woodland once hunted by royalty preying on the wildlife of the Vale of the White Hart.

Distance: 4 miles/6km

Time: 2 hours

Ability: Easy.

Max height: 441ft

Min height: 235 ft

Total climb: 317 ft

Terrain: Tracks, paths, fields and roads. Can get muddy.

Exertion: Medium. Some mud after rain.

Start Point: The Trooper Inn. (Postcode: DT102JW, Grid Reference: ST715148, What Three Words: flinches.cove.paramedic).

Map: OS Explorer 129 Yeovil & Sherborne

How to get there: From Sherborne you can either approach from the south via the A3030 and turning off at Bishop’s Caundle or from the north via the A30 and turning off at Milborne Port.

Dogs: On leads where livestock is present and in accordance with any notices on the walk and The Countryside Code.

Refreshments: At the start and finish of the walk is The Trooper Inn or nearby is The White Hart in Bishops Caundle.

Neighbouring Walks: Sherborne, Stalbridge, Lydlinch, Kings Stag and Bishop’s Caundle.

Host of The Stile Trail

Stourton Caundle is a secret, hidden away village deep in the Blackmore Vale, its past chequered with mystery and adventure. Set in the middle of the once heavily forested medieval hunting ground of the Vale of the White Hart, it is one of a number of villages in the area which adopt the Caundle name, these include Bishop’s Caundle, Purse Caundle, Caundle Marsh as well as the passing river. The name Caundle possibly derives from the chain of hills to the north which split the River Stour from the River Yeo. The Stourton is a manorial addition that’s has stuck since the 14th century but also derives from the landscape. Adapting the River Stour’s name and the Old English ‘ton’ for enclosure reflects where there historical seat lies – at the source of the River Stour.

The original castle, or fortified manor, was on the western side of the village but only a thirteenth-century chapel and two fish ponds remain. After the Norman Conquest the settlement was known as Candel Malherbie, Malherbie translating from French to ‘weed’, but in 1202 Sir Henry de Haddon bought the land and founded a manor, the name changing to Caundell Haddon.

In 1348 the plague arrived with force and as soon as it hit the village it killed Henry Haddon, Lord of the Manor and 4th generation descendent of the first Henry Haddon. The manor then went to his daughter, Amicia, who had married Sir William FitzWaryn in 1340. Their lands combined to create large estates across England. In 1361 a second wave of the plague hit, killing Sir William and then Amicia the following year, leaving their son, Ivo, only 13 at the time, in the care of Queen Philippa, the wife of King Edward III. Fighting the plague would have been a mission for the village but keeping cats was outlawed as the belief was that they spread the plague with their fleas. Nevertheless, it has been argued that the village felt the opposite and that the little Cat Lane, leading out of the village to the south, was named after the pets that saved the village from worse.

Ivo grew up to become a respected young man, fighting in the 100 Years War and becoming the MP for Dorset just as Parliament was created. In 1372 he married Maud de Argentine and had two daughters Alice and Eleanor.

Alice married Richard (Dick) Whittington in 1402. Richard was the son of a modest merchant who managed to work himself up both the social and political ladder, eventually becoming the Mayor of London. Sadly Alice died of the plague, childless, in 1411, leaving Ivo, Maud and Richard broken-hearted. Three years later her parents contracted the plague and also died. Richard died in 1423, leaving a legacy of his work in London and his life in the fairy tale of Dick Whittington, the cat playing a crucial part as it did in the village to fight the plague that affected so many of his family, but the story has a happier ending. Richard was buried in St Michael Paternoster Royal, London next to Alice but the tomb had since been lost. In an effort to rediscover it a mummified cat was unearthed possibly strengthening the real life relationship between Richard the animals, the plague and London.

The estate was left to Alice’s sister, Eleanor, already a widower with two children and remarried with another three. Eleanor passed away in 1433 and her second husband, Ralph Busshe died in 1441. He outlived all his children so the estate went to Eleanor’s first son, John Chideock, and his wife Catherine. John died in 1462 and the estate went to William Stourton, the 2nd Baron Stourton of Wiltshire, through marriage to John’s daughter Margaret. It was then this family that gave the village its name.

In 1535, William’s Grandson, also William, became the 7^th Baron Stourton. Their main house was the manor of Stourhead and so in his older years he hired a William Hartgill (a Protestant) to manage some of the estates (these were growing quickly as he purchased more land from the Crown during the dissolution). The rumblings of discontent were also growing due to the friction between religions. His marriage to Elizabeth was an unhappy one and his relationship with his son was strained. Instead, his affair to Agnes Rice was a public scandal. Agnes was moved into the Manor at Stourhead while Elizabeth made her home at Stourton Caundle. In 1548 William died leaving his estate to Agnes which was contested by his son Charles, now the 8^th Baron Stourton (and a devout Catholic). Meanwhile, unbeknownst to the Stourton’s, Hartgill was claiming some lands as his own while befriending Elizabeth on terms that could be called inappropriate. These collections of wrong doings, on top of religious disagreements, greatly angered Charles and an attack on Hartgill led to him being put in gaol. On his release, with the condition that he apologises, he immediately returned to Stourton Caundle where he tricked Hartgill and his son, John, to a meeting place. He subsequently attacked them, took them prisoner in the dungeon of the manor house (whether it be Stourhead or Stourton Caundle is contested!) and slit their throats. The murders were eventually discovered and Charles was sent to the Tower of London. He was hung in the market square in Salisbury in 1557 using a silken cord due to his status. A pardon from Queen Mary was apparently delivered to Wilton House but did not make it to the city in time.

Charles’ wife, Lady Ann Stanley, who still lived in Stourton Caundle was evicted and given days to pay debts. Anne managed to find happiness in her second marriage to John Arundell of Lanherne, Cornwall, whose nephew owned Wardour Castle. They lived out their remaining years with eight children.

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The castle of Stourton Caundle fell into ruins, the stones reused in walls and some of the buildings of the village including Manor Farm, The Retreat and, the oldest, Gwyers which was built in 1602. An old tithe barn was built from the stone but it burnt down in the 1960’s. The farmhouse became the manor which was sold, along with the estate at Stourhead, in 1727 to the banking family the Hoares. They then proceeded to build the National Trust property that is more widely known today.

The village was home to two pubs in the 18th century, The Catherine Wheel (now The Trooper) and an Alehouse at the northern end of the village, now Gwyers. During the Napoleonic Wars in the early 19^th century a table was set up outside The Catherine Wheel to enlist young men. The Trooper name then stuck.

Opposite The Trooper is Manor Farm, a sixteenth century building with many jutting walls and windows. The house was owned by the children’s author, Enid Blyton, and her second husband, from 1956 to 1960. It was the inspiration for one of her Famous Five novels – ‘Five Go To Finniston Farm’, its plot similar to the village history. The Famous Five discover the story of an old ruined castle (that no longer exists apart from tunnels and a dungeon), an old chapel (that has been tuned into a barn) and treasure!

Facing the Manor House, turn right to pass the Congregational Chapel, built in 1859, and the red phone box. Turn left up the track and follow it between the bungalows and down the slope. On the right are the old fishponds and leat that were associated with the medieval castle. They are on private property so unable to be explored however they are occasionally open during the annual National Garden Scheme.

Make your way past the barns, approaching the western side of Manor Farm and turn right, following the track through the farmyard. The last stone barn on the right is a 13th century chapel, another element remaining of the castle. It was once much bigger as it has lost its chancel and all that remains today is the nave.  It was most likely built by Henry Haddon as a private place of worship for the family. Inside, etched into the windows and doorways, are some 17th century graffiti, some of which are to ward off witches! Outside is a large flat area and wall, this is believed to be the burial ground which has, at times of flood, produced human bones.

Head away from the village staying on the track, and when it curves with the river take the bridge and stile over the water. The field you enter is the possible location of the Castle. A shallow platform is ingrained into the slope on the northern side of the valley, believed to be its foundations. Records have shown it to be a large square manor with turrets as fortification, its size and appearance possibly similar to Wardour Castle, all facing out towards the lakes.

Turn left and head through the gate into the open field. Bear to the right towards the top corner and turn left into the next field. Follow the boundary on the right down to the hedge then head straight over the spur to the next river crossing. Climb straight up the next field, skimming the ancient woodland of Bilcombe Copse on the right. Bend to the right, passing two small ponds down on the left, surrounded by a selection of faint earthworks, to then cut the corner of the final field and meet the lane at Woodrow.

Woodrow was recorded as a settlement in the 14th century, matching Caundell Haddon in population. To the left the track leads down to the river with ruins of the old cottages still hidden in the woods and on the river banks. The neighbouring earthworks, the ruins and the old track clearly suggest a much larger settlement that has now just disappeared.

Alongside the river is a bench dedicated to James Fiennes. Cousin to the explorer Ranulph Fiennes, James was viscously murdered by a stranger in London in 2014, aged 49. The bench was erected in his memory as he lived nearby.

Turn right on the track to weave through the 18th century Woodrow Farm. On reaching the road cross slightly to the right to go through a silver gate on the left. Enter the field at Ramillies Farm and keep to the bottom edge of the two fields while following the top of Plumley Wood, annually flooded with bluebells.

After walking through a smaller field head through a little gap in the hedge to join a channelled path, eventually reaching a nearby house. On arriving at the road, beware of traffic as it is particularly narrow for any passing cars. Cross straight over, through a metal gate and climb the stile to then bear left across the field, heading to the gap between Cockhill Farm and Haddon Lodge. Climb the next stile midway and continue in the same direction to the trees. Meet a new stile at the boundary and keep to the path that runs along a ménage, over another stile and out onto a small road. Cross straight over to join a path alongside Haddon Lodge’s garden wall.

Henry de Haddon, the founder of Stourton Caundle has managed to retain his name in the Lodge. The detailed history is elusive but it was most likely to have been built upon an older building with connections to the manor at Stourton or Purse Caundle.

Follow the path and the little stream to the end then climb over the stile at the gate and continue with the boundary to the left. Ignore the stream when it diverts away and instead carry straight on with New Leaze Wood on the peak ahead, another pocket of ancient woodland. Climb over a double stile and continue up into the second field, once again keeping the field boundary to the left.

On approaching the wood, take the little double gate on the left to enter a large open field with the views looking over the Blackmore Vale to the rising hills of Okeford and Bulbarrow in the distance. The communication masts mark its peak before its western spur wrinkles into the ramparts of the Iron Age hillfort of Rawlsbury. Bear right to cross diagonally over the field, heading straight for Rockhill Farm. Skim the right hand side of the small wooded pond and then veer to the right to a stile set deep within the hedge to access the country lane.

Turn left then right on the road to climb the stone stile in the hedge opposite the farm entrance. The paths on the OS maps tend to be a little blocked by the hedges in this area, so instead keep the field boundary on the right, following it gently down the hill. Use the breaks amongst the hedge on the right to enter the last field and circle its border to the bottom right hand corner. Head through a farm gate and between the cottages to meet the village road.

Turn right to wander back into the village, passing an old stone wall, complete with turret, on the right and the church on the left. The Church of St. Peter’s stands a little above the village on a small mound behind three chunky yew trees. It dates back to the 13th century but was completely restored in 1902. On the southern face of the tower is a clock made in 1721 by the village Blacksmith, John Biddlecombe, which was restored to commemorate the Queen’s Silver Jubilee in 1977. Above stands a weather vane dated 1691. Inside the church is an effigy believed to be Eleanor FitzWaryn, flanked by her five children. The figure has been slightly defaced, thought to have occurred during the dissolution of the 16^th century.

Continue along the village road to drop back down to the river and return to The Trooper Inn.