Circle the mystical town of Glastonbury and the island that houses the Tor, once surrounded by sea but still dominating the town. Follow the footsteps of legends including Goddess Bridie, King Arthur, his knights and even Jesus himself, his blood still staining the soil. Pass Abbey remains, spiritual shops and the Holy Thorn as it grows in the churchyard. Search for the Holy Grail around Chalice Hill, where two springs create red and white water. Skim the edge of the Somerset Levels to Gog and Magog, the two remaining oak trees of the 1000 year old Isle of Avalon. Finally climb the Tor, with views for miles, then discover the secret wishing tree, haunted by fairies, and refresh in the cavernous cave of the White Spring, protected by Bridie’s flames.
Distance: 4.5miles/7km (See map of route at bottom of page)
Time: 2 hours
Ability: Medium, steep climb up the Tor.
Max height: 525ft
Min height: 62ft
Total climb: 742ft
Terrain: Tracks, paths, fields and roads.
Start Point: The Somerset Rural Life Museum. Open Tues – Sun from 10.00 am. (Postcode: BA6 8BE, Grid Reference: ST503385, What Three Words: resources.beard.graceful).
Map: OS Explorer 141 Chedder Gorge and Mendip Hills West
How to get there: The Somerset Rural life Museum is placed on the western edge of the town at the junction between the A361 and Chilkwell Street. If parking is full or closed more is available along the A361 or in the town car parks. .
Dogs: On leads where livestock is present and in accordance with any notices on the walk and The Countryside Code.
Refreshments: A selection of options are all within the town of Glastonbury and passed on the walk.
Related Walks: Trent, Win Green, Pilsdon Pen, Shave Cross, Ninesprings, The North Dorset Trailway, Avebury and Stonehenge.
Walk
Rising up above the low-lying Somerset Levels is the Isle of Avalon, the landscape lifting up to the peak of the Tor. Not only would it have appeared as a sancturay against the harsh envrionment of the marsh, but also as a prominent landmark and view point. During the Neolithic period the sea filled the wetland below creating reed swamps and marsh. Gradually lake villages developed at its base, connected by timber trackways. The Sweet Track, dating from around 3800BC, is believed to be one of the oldest timber trackways in Northern Europe, possibly the world. Glastonbury Lake village sat close to the flow of the River Brue with homes made from a framework of hazel and willow, filled with rubble and clay, for about 100 people. It dates back to 300BC and was occupied until the Roman encroachment around 100AD. An ancient road travelled to the east, connecting the island to the main land. However, this was defended by the earthwork of Ponter’s Ball Dyke, protecting it from any unwanted entry. It was excvated in the early 1900s but its date and origin are still debated.
In the 1st century AD, circa 63AD, Joseph of Arimathea, tin merchant and uncle of Jesus, had captured Jesus’s blood in a cup (used by Jesus in the last supper) known as the ‘Holy Grail’. The Holy Grail was then brought to Britain as Joseph spread the word of Christianity, while also on the lookout for tin for his trade. Having arrived at Glastonbury by boat, over the Somerset Levels, he struck his staff into the ground below and by morning it had grown into the Glastonbury Thorn. The hybrid Hawthorn still grows only within a few miles of Glastonbury, including in the grounds of Glastonbury Abbey, St John’s Church and Chalice Well. A sprig is cut from the thorn in St John’s Church and sent to the sovereign each Christmas.
Joseph then chose the now magical site to be the place to build the abbey to celebrate the sacred Holy Grail. Meanwhile, for its own safety, he is said to have buried the magical cup just below the Tor at the entrance to the underworld, where a spring, now known as Chalice Well, flows from the ground. The water is claimed to bring eternal youth to whoever drinks it. It is also thought that Jesus himself came with Joseph as a boy, helping him to construct some of the ancient church. On his death it is believed he was buried somewhere within the Abbey grounds and his son, Josephus, took over the role as Grail Keeper.
In 433AD St Patrick arrived in Glastonbury and set up a proper monastic order, eventually developing into a home to Celtic hermits, but it was the next century where the most famous character became involved. In the early 500s King Arthur and his Knights of the Round Table embarked on a mission to search for the Holy Grail. Arthur has many connections to the local landscape, with Camelot thought to be at Cadbury Castle, the Sword of Excalibur thrown into the lake at Trent Barrow and, at the foot of the Tor, a vast lake called The Island of Glass, today its western point marked by Pomparles Bridge, which was considered to be the home of the Lady of the Lake. Despite his unsuccessful search for the Grail, his resting place was believed to be in the Abbey.
It wasn’t until the Saxon period that the landscape was recorded as sacred. The Abbey was established by the 7th century with Centwine (King of Wessex frim 676-686AD) as the first patron. The period also began the stricter management of the surrounding water by creating a channel from the Abbey to the River Brue. The Glastonbury name derives from the Old English ‘burh’ for fortified place or monastic enclosure (more likely the second) combined with a personal, possible, Irish name of Glas. The final ‘ton’ element refers to a peak or hill.
Despite a battle after the Norman invasion, resulting in the death of a number of monks, the Abbey thrived until 1184 when a disastrous fire struck destroying most of the Abbey buildings. A huge amount of funds were put into its reconstruction and was complete within 2 years. However, the monks were broke. By some kind of miraculous intervention, in 1191, they unearthed a stone slab, under which was a lead cross inscribed in Latin, ‘Hic iacet sepultus inclitus rex arturius in insula avalonia’, meaning ‘Here lies buried the renowned King Arthur in the Isle of Avalon’. Underneath was a scrap of hair and the possible bones of King Arthur and Queen Guinevere. This attracted a huge number of pilgrims, helping the abbey survive, and a lavish ceremony took place to rebury the bones in a black marble tomb, attended by both King Edward I and Queen Eleanor in 1278.
Three kings, Edmund I (d. 946), Edgar I (d. 975), and Edmund II Ironside (d. 1016) are buried within its walls while King Henry III visited the town in 1235 and 1250, encouraging more drainage of the moors. King Edward III came in 1331 and Henry VII in 1497 but in 1534, the passing of the Act of Supremacy made Henry VIII the head of the Church of England and suppression of the monasteries began. By this time the Abbey had grown to huge proportions and was one of the wealthiest in the country, making it a key target for Henry. Buildings in the town included the Tribunal, The George and Pilgrims’ Hotel and the Somerset Rural Life Museum, which is based at the site of a 14th-century abbey manor tithe barn. The Abbots remained in possession for as long as possible until eventually Abbot Richard Whiting was arrested on a fabricated charge of treason and executed in 1539. However, there was no dramatic destruction. The Abbey was stripped of all its valuables and the land was given to the Duke of Somerset, Sir Edward Seymour. It was slowly taken apart, its stone used in the development of the town and the marble caskets of Arthur and Guinevere were lost. Today a notice board marks the spot of Arthur’s original resting place while Guinevere is believed to have since been found at Amesbury, near Stonehenge.
Despite losing its monastic role the town’s market remained an important part of the surrounding rural life, sitting on an important trade route too, with a growing number of inns throughout the following centuries. Further drainage of the surrounding moors also helped with the economic development, especially with the creation of the Glastonbury Canal in 1834. It was later trumped and replaced by the railway in 1854, which itself was closed in 1966. Today the town retains its mystical and scared heritage and is most famous for the Glastonbury Festival which takes place just to the west at Pilton Farm.
From the Rural Life Museum, once used as storage for the abbey’s arable produce, turn left on the road and follow it around the right hand corner at the end. Walk straight into town, passing the Abbey site on the right. The ruins, set in 36 acres of parkland, are worth a visit with remains of the Abbot’s Kitchen and the Lady Chapel particularly well-preserved. It is placed in the heart of the town with the Abbey gate house at its entrance. Other entrances did exist but have slowly merged into the town.
Curve around the next right hand bend skimming past the market cross on the left. The Cross was built in 1845 by architect Benjamin Ferry who was also designed Bridehead in Little Bredy, St Marys Church in Tarrant Hinton and Clyffe House in Tincleton. It replaced an earlier cross dating from 1604 which had also replaced an earlier one dating from 1499.
Just next to the cross is the 15th century St George and Pilgim Inn, believed to be the oldest pub in the South West of England. It was built in 1439 to replace an older inn and house the increasing numbers of visiting pilgrims. It is rumoured that King Henry VIII came to the hotel and watched the abbey’s destruction from a room on the second floor, now known as King Henry VIII’s room, and possible to stay in. There are also two resident ghosts, a monk and a grey lady. They were apparently lovers who would meet in the underground tunnels that linked the abbey to the inn. Their love affair was punished by spending eternity roaming the corridors of the building.
Head up the High Street to pass The Tribunal on the left. The building was originally the Abbey courthouse and was used during the Monmouth Rebellion trials by Judge Jeffrey’s. Today it is a museum containing possessions and works of art from the Glastonbury Lake Village. Further up the street is St Johns church.
St John’s Church, on the left, dates from the 15th century. Its tower reaches a height of 134½ feet (about 41 metres) and is the second tallest parish church tower in Somerset. Unsurprisingly it replaced and earlier church which has actually merged into the newer version. The scared Glastonbury Thorn stands just at the towers base, flowering only twice a year – Easter and Christmas.
Head all the way up to the top of High Street and turn right on Lambrook Street. Merge onto Chilkwell Street and turn left, opposite the north gate to the Abbey House, onto Dod Lane. When it bends to the left, veer off the road onto the footpath straight ahead. Follow the gravel track up the hill and away from the houses to meet the junction of Bulwarks Lane and Lypyatt Lane, Chalice Hill rising on the right; Chalice Hill being another possible location for the buried Holy Grail.
Curve with Bulwarks Lane around to the left, staying on the narrow country lane, squeezed between the high hedges of the orchards. Stay on the same road, passing the lonely Hepworth cottage, to gently climb up to the T-Junction with Wick Hollow. Turn left to shortly arrive at two footpaths on the right. Take the right hand option, climbing up and over a small knoll to meet Maiden Croft Lane. Continue straight on the narrow road where the views open up over the Somerset levels to the Mendip Hills.
On arriving at Higher Wick Farm bend to the left, between both the barns and farm, to then curve around to the right. Cross over its drive and continue straight ahead into the open field, keeping the boundary on the right. Drop down over a small stream and up the opposite banks into a field. Bear to the left, climbing up the hill to Wick. Join a track on the corner to then follow it down to the mighty oak trees of Gog and Magog.
Gog and Magog are two ancient trees that were originally believed to be part of the Oaks of Avalon, a ceremonial route to the Tor, walked by none other than Joseph of Arimathea. The names derive from the Bible with Gog being an individual and Magog his land. The Oaks were felled in 1906 to make way for a farm with some of the trees cut down exposing growth rings stretching back 2000 seasons, one was recorded to have a diameter of 11ft. In 2017, although already believed to be dead, Gog suffered from an accidental fire caused by an innocent candle, which had to be extinguished by the Fire Service.
Continue down the same path, ignoring the footpath on the right to meet a little lane. Turn right, climbing steeply uphill onto Stone Down Lane. On meeting Basketfield Lane, with the Tor rising ahead, turn right. Take the footpath through the gate on the left towards the Tor.
Just next to the gate, on the left, is the the Bridey Bell. The Bridey Bell is a modern standing stone and part of a pilgrimage route from Wells to Glastonbury created 25 years ago. The route, called Syrens, includes nine stones with bronze bells inserted within them, this one being the last on the route. Each bell, a mile apart, requires a pebble to strike, creating a little tune on the way.
Follow the path up the hill and steps through the gate to enter the landscape of the Tor. The Glastonbury Tor stands at a height of 158 metres (518 ft.) above sea level and is a prominent landmark all around. Its shape has been created by natural geological processes aswell as artificial terraces carved into the slopes. Evidence of activity dates back to the Mesolithic with the presence of prehistoric flint. Artefacts from the Iron Age and Roman period have also been unearthed suggesting it may have been the site of a Roman temple. The terraces have been considered to possibly have hillfort origins, especially in relation to nearby Cadbury Castle in the south east, incorporating the defensive rampart of Ponter’s Ball crossing the small rise back to what would have been the mainland to the east. Other theories for the terraces include a three-dimensional labyrinth in which pilgrims and monks had to navigate before arriving at the peak, or for agricultural use including vine growing and ploughing.
The earliest settler was St Collen, years before St Patrick set up the monastic order. Collen claimed he had been summoned by the fairies to the top of the hill where he discovered a glass palace filled with extravagantly dressed courtiers serving the King of the fairies, Gwyn, sitting on a golden throne. Beneath the hill there was believed to be hidden caves leading to the fairy realm of Annwn and the Lord of the Underworld. It was claimed that Gwyn received the spits of the dead who then departed to the heavens or down to the underworld from the Tor. The calling of St Collen led to a small wooden chapel, dedicated to St Michel, to be built on the summit, soon to be surrounded by other Saxon additions to create an early monks hermitage. St Michael was chosen as the saint as he was the patron saint of diabolic attacks which the monks believed Gwyn could carry out.
On 11th September 1275 the small settlement was destroyed by an earthquake, one so strong it was felt in London and Wales. The stone church of St Michael was built in its place. The new church survived until the 1539 when, during the Dissolution, all was demolished except for the tower. The same year Abbott Richard Whiting, was hung, drawn and quartered on the peak, marking the end of monastic rule. The top offers an unmatched 360-degree view over the Somerset Levels, with it easy to imagine how Glastonbury Tor was once an island.
In the world of the fairy, every tree, plant, river, spring, mountain, valley and woodland has its own spirit. In this fairy landscape a small wishing tree stands in the southern slopes of the Tor, slightly away from the footpath. Decorating its branches are a collection of ribbons representing pagan prayers and wishes. Despite fairies and elves having a slightly mischievous reputation if you go out into nature and reach out in your imagination for the blessing of their king and look after natural places, you will be noticed. Once accepted they will look after you too.
Follow the opposite path down the hill, diverting off to the left if on a mission to find the Wishing Tree. Continue down the slopes to leave the landscape of the Tor and exit onto Wellhouse Lane. Turn right to find the White Spring. The White Spring is home to a shrine in honour of Brigid (or Bridie), keeper of the hearth fire, the fire in the forge, and of the Divine flame which burns in our hearts. Bridie was born in Ireland but entered the monastery here at Glastonbury, where the bishop, prompted by the Holy Spirit, blessed her as an Abbess as well as a nun. She then founded her own abbey in Kildare Ireland. Here, women and men lived peaceful, prayerful lives together.
The water from the White Spring is white with Calcite. It flows from deep within the Tor and is believed to have healing properties, encouraged by Bridie. The spring was wrapped in a Victorian temple in 1872, free to enter and even swim if desired, and on the outside of the building is a small tap where visitors and locals can collect the magical water.
Neighbouring the White Spring is the Chalice Well, aka Blood Well or Red Spring, tinged slightly red by the presence of Iron. It also flows from deep within the Tor, creating a great mystery on how two springs so close to one other can discharge such different water. Both the sources come from below and so the strength of the water is not dependent on rainfall as they begin its existence deep within the Earth. They have never been known to fail either, even in times of drought. It is around these springs where Joseph is believed to have buried the Holy Grail, providing one spiritual theory why the springs have been stained with ‘blood’.
Turn back onto the main road and turn right to head straight to the roundabout. Turn left to return to The Rural Life Museum and your vehicle.
