Dorset’s second largest river travels through Thomas Hardy country. From the high valleys in the heart of Dorset to the Vale of the Great Dairies, it merges with the sea in Poole Harbour. Discover a number of places to explore on its path, with tales of punished maidens to fierce Viking raids.
Click on names for details and routes.
Evershot
From Thomas Hardy’s typical Dorset village of Evershot, discover the source of the River Frome. Pass the parish church whose tower was designed by the same man who designed the Elizabeth Tower – home to Big Ben. Travel over the hills to the hidden hamlet of Rampisham and its secret packhorse bridge. Walk on to Chantmarle, a stunning Elizabethan manor house with its own canal acting like a moat. Left to ruin it was rebuilt and turned into a police academy until it was renovated back into a private home. Return back to Evershot, through farms, fields, and deep tree routes to the ancient stone three sisters, punished for dancing on the Sabbath.
Frome St Quintin
Wade along the soggy banks of the River Frome as it skims past the hamlet of Frome St Quintin. Discover the Elizabethan Manor House of Chantmarle, its drive crossing both the railway and river using a stone balustrade bridge. Once on the edge of ruin it became a police academy and is now home to the largest collection of military vehicles amongst other varied assemblages. Cross the earthworks of the settlement of Blakemore with the possibility of a lost castle. Curve through the valley to climb up to the Roman road of Long Ash Lane, sitting on the high ridgeway and immortalised by Thomas Hardy. Drop down the hill to return to Frome St Quintin with views back to Chantmarle and over the Frome valley.
Cattistock
From the home of the Knob throwing contest, climb the slopes of Cattistock Castle, the earthwork that towers over the village. Discover Chalmington, the country house whose previous owner made some dodgy smuggling deals and is still being chased by the American authorities. Wander through fields and through woodland to find the little River Frome as it travels down the valley to Dorchester. Cross the single track railway to join the old medieval road passing the thatched 17th century mill that survived a fire. Finally, find the sorry tale of Cattistock Lodge, a house with a history full of love – for animals, sport and each other. It was once elegant, with gardens to match, but now is little more than a broken shell of its former self, fading further into the landscape with every blow of wind and lash of rain.
Maiden Newton
After tracing the old route of the Bridport branch railway line to the village train station, clamber up the chalk hills using the old medieval route, its path passing the ruins of an old Blacksmith’s workshop. Wander between the fields and patches of woodland in a landscape still scarred by the Romans, their road skimming the peak and their villa in the valley. Join the River Frome as it meanders its way slowly through the neighbouring meadows to Frome Vauchurch. Visit the little church that dates back to the 12th century with its own ancient yews, sundial and pirate grave in the churchyard. Follow the water upstream to pass the riverside bolthole of early 20th century artists and poets. Return via the large village of Maiden Newton, complete with two medieval crosses and the oldest door in England.
Frampton & Compton Valence
Disappear into the secret valleys of Compton Valence. Weave through the deep interlocking spurs and up to view the hidden countryside, its contours perfect for the first Roman aqueduct. Drop down into the valley of the River Frome to Frampton, skirting a nature reserve with its own Roman villa. Explore the landscape of Frampton Park, its driveway crossing the elegant Peacock Bridge and the house cursed by a monk, until the building was demolished and the last heir passed away. Return to Compton Valence through the natural channel of Compton Bottom, the enclosing slopes and pockets of woodland still echoing with the sounds of the Romans.
Poundbury
King Charles III, as the Duchy of Cornwall, created the architectural trailblazer that is Poundbury, the responsibility now falling to the new Duchy – Prince William. Start at the pub the King dedicated to his wife, in the Square dedicated to his grandmother. Wander between homes and shops, with no distinguishable difference, to skim the dusty chalk of fresh development. Dive under the bypass to enter into the ancient landscape that surrounds the Roman town. Trace the aqueduct which supplied Roman spas, baths and fountains and climb the hill with views to two Iron Age hill forts the soldiers conquered. Discover the woodland cottage of Tilly Whim before dipping down into the two valleys of the River Frome and River Cerne. Pass the Elizabethan Manor of Wolfeton and its unique riding house, hiding behind a deserted settlement and on the cusp of a new one. Return to Dorchester passing a haunted pond, the Hangman’s cottage, a Roman town house, the Roman wall and the Military Keep. Climb the ramparts of Poundbury Hillfort with Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s railway tunnel buried underfoot. Weave your way gently through the new development to be greeted back in the square by the towering Queen Mother’s statue.
Fordington
Follow the flow of the Frome as it sweeps around the county town of Dorchester. Starting in the village of Fordington, cross over Grey’s Bridge where Thomas Hardy placed a number of his melancholy characters. Walk along the banks of the water, passing remains of crossings and controls of the meadows. Wander through the hamlet of Cocker’s Frome, passed from parents to daughter, into the fields, farms and earthworks of the wider landscape. After views from the peak, over Dorchester and across the hills to Hardy’s Monument, drop back down to the river passing Frome Whitfield and the site of its lost church. Cross the water using the Victorian Blue Bridge and follow its flow past a haunted pond and a Nature Reserve. Return to Fordington on the edge of the old Roman walls, littered with a collection of Roman remains.
Stinsford
From the depths of Thorncombe Woods discover the poet and author Thomas Hardy’s birthplace. Travel through the little village of Higher Bockhampton to Stinsford, following the footsteps of Roman soldiers. Pass numerous stately homes including Kingston Maurward, Birkin and Stinsford to meet the River Frome. Visit the memorial to Hardy at Stinsford church containing his heart that went on its own perilous adventure. Walk through the tree tunnelled path, accompanied by the babbling brooks of the River Frome, to Lower Bockhampton and its ancient Manor House. Pass Heedless William Pond with a tragic history that led to the growth of an impressive ash tree. Return via Puddletown Forest where, amongst heath and wild horses, obvious traces of the Romans still remain.
Woodsford & Crossways
Starting in the youthful settlement of Crossways, explore Thomas Hardy’s Vale of the Great Dairies. Cross over rivers and railways, between a forgotten castle and rising earthworks into the countryside. Discover medieval manor houses and timber framed barns, which have stood for centuries, before joining the wide and slow River Frome. Wander through the deserted village of West Woodsford to find its very own castle, topped with one of the largest thatched roofs of the county. Return via the industrial landscape of the working quarries to then follow the railway through the remains of a World War II British and American airbase.
Pallington
Starting in the valley of the River Frome, where the river pools into large lakes and the banks are decorated with artwork, join the country lane and travel westwards to Tincleton. Pass the little church and old school house, designed by the architect Benjamin Ferry, and climb up the hill to the impressive manor of Clyffe House. Venture deep into Southover Wood where the ground rises and sinks, through both manmade and natural efforts, but hidden under the tree trunks. Weave between oaks, elms, yews and beech to the heath where the views look back over the Frome towards the sea. Drop back down to the valley and past the 18th century Pallington Farm to return to the famous Dorset Sculpture Park.
Lawrence of Arabia & Moreton
Explore the landscape loved by Lawrence of Arabia. Visit his home of Clouds Hill deep in the depths of heath, forest and sinking ground. The land used for a new film about his life in Dorset as well as the background for Gwyneth Paltrow’s ‘Emma’. Discover the little village of Moreton, sitting in the valley of the River Frome, with its special church and Whistler windows. The lord of the manor being the magistrate who secured the prosecution against the Tolpuddle Martyrs. Return via the tank tracks and military training zones of Bovington while dodging sink holes and any of the six native British reptiles!
Wool
From the little village of Wool, the name deriving from springs rather than sheep, clamber over its old village earthworks to the haunting remains of the monastery of Bindon. Follow the little country road and the flood plains of the River Frome to discover the ruins of St Mary’s church, buried in brambles, concealing the church’s surviving 17th century gravestones. Join the river at the site of East Stoke’s mill, in the company of traditional thatched roofed, 16th century cottages. Make your way along a dead end lane, used by many a smuggler, through Highwood to the outskirts of the Lulworth estate. Climb over the brow of the hill into a secret valley and the deserted village of Woodstreet, now just crumbling barns. Return to Wool through the tall trees and bracken bushes of Cole Wood, with the occasional tooting horn of the passing train on the London line.
Holmebridge
From an ancient stone bridge, with tales of life and death, follow the River Frome upstream through Thomas Hardy’s ‘Vale of the Great Dairies’. Walk between the river and Dorset’s busiest railway to the hamlet of East Stoke. Skim the site of its lost chapel and pass its converted church up to the old turnpike road, lined with varied memorials dedicated to battle. Enter the landscape of quarries, where prehistoric earthworks still rise but extractions discover elements of recent our history. Weave through the thick gorse bushes, amongst the sandy terrain of Worgret Heath, with views over the Frome valley to the Purbeck Hills. Return under the railway tracks and along the river banks back to the little hamlet of Holmebridge.
East Holme
A mini adventure into a secret spot on the banks of the River Frome. The long gone Priory of Holme has disappeared, its site faded into history. The Priory church, which sat on the site of a Roman church, the land dedicated over 2000 years ago, has also gone. Instead the Victorian Architect John Hicks was commissioned by the Bond family to build a new one, claimed to be one of his best and decorated by the lady of the manor. The Bonds are believed to be the inspiration behind James Bond, their family motto translating to ‘The World is not Enough’. The Priory manor, which dates back to the 16th century, still stands, looking over parkland towards the Purbeck hills.
Wareham
From the Saxon town of Wareham, follow the River Frome to Poole Harbour, tracing the reverse route of invading Danes. Curve around Swineham Point with views stretching from Arne peninsula, to Brownsea Island and to the shimmering conurbation of Poole. Meet the River Piddle entering Wareham via the ancient town walls. Pass a stunning example of a Saxon, 1000 year old church and, keeping to the walls, return to the River Frome and back to The Old Granary.
Ridge
Claimed to be one of the oldest settlements in Dorset, the River Frome has shaped Stoborough’s growth as an ancient causeway provided access over the water. After surviving many Viking attacks, the Civil War led to its downfall when the village sacrificed itself to save the town of Wareham. It never returned to its earlier status, quietly minding its own business as Wareham grew. The old routes still carve their way through the landscape, later cut by the tramways of the clay industry. Wander through the wild heathland and Nature Reserves, following the ancient paths past burial mounds and quarries while weaving through the gnarly trees. Return using the dismantled tramway straight back to Ridge, sitting on the banks of the river as it makes its way into Poole Harbour.
